Have you ever wondered how some plants handle our hot temperatures and intense sunlight?
Look carefully at the flowers, above. Note the small hairs covering the petals? They help to reflect the sun’s rays.
I like using large shrubs to screen the back wall of my garden, so I have quite a few ‘Rio Bravo’ sage shrubs.
They put on a spectacular show off and on throughout the summer when they bloom. (Leucophyllum langmaniae) is just one species of Leucophyllum (Texas Sage).
Of course, if you insist on pruning your sage shrubs into round ‘blobs’ – you will never see the flower show.
For guidelines on how to prune your desert, flowering shrubs correctly, click here.
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Earlier this week, I have been sharing with you about our recent trip into the old, mining town of Bisbee, AZ.
From unique pieces of art, the friendly people, great food and endless stairways, our trip was so much fun.
What I haven’t shown you in my earlier posts are the plants and gardens of Bisbee, which deserve their own post.
Bisbee is located in zone 8a, which is means that it gets about 10 degrees colder then Phoenix and Tucson areas. Because this historic town is also higher in the mountains, it doesn’t get as hot in the summer months.
Much of the plants were the same of what you would see growing throughout central and southern Arizona. Missing were the more tropical plants such as bougainvillea, yellow bells and lantana, which struggle to survive the winters in this area.
The gardens in Bisbee often made use of old, antique pieces that intermingled almost seamlessly among garden plants.
In this garden, the homeowner added a splash of color by using brightly-colored bottles to form an informal border along her raised beds.
Up on her wire fence, she had an old miner’s pan and soup pot hanging from a post.
The Historical Clawson House had a lovely planting arrangement that I particularly liked.
A large swath of flowering coreopsis contrasted beautifully with the gray/blue agave showing us that you don’t need a lot of different types of plants to make a statement in the garden – sometimes less is more effective.
Walking along the main street, I saw the biggest star jasmine vine.
It grew up the metal fence and beyond, hugging this 3-story building. Needless to say, the fragrance was intoxicating.
A brightly-colored building had an unusual pair of container plants.
Spinless prickly pear (Opuntia ellisiana) looked great in half-whiskey barrels.
Continuing our walk through town, I saw a small cafe which had an adjoining garden that can only be described as a grotto.
Where else, but in the desert southwest would you see a prickly pear cactus growing along side a rose bush?
Speaking of roses, I spotted a hedge of pink Iceberg roses in full bloom.
*Iceberg roses are a typically used for providing an informal hedge and they do well in Arizona.
In front of the iconic courthouse, I spotted some flowering ocotillo, so I headed over for a closer look.
I never tire of seeing the vermillion-colored flowers of ocotillo year after year.
My little ocotillo produced its first flower earlier this spring, after 4 years in the ground! It can take while for newly planted ocotillo to flower, but 4 years was a little long to have to wait.
Alongside the ocotillo were santa-rita (purple) prickly pears in full bloom.
Continuing our walk through the historic downtown, I noticed murals painted along the Cochise County Cooperative Extension Building.
In the window of the building were some helpful plant tips.
What a great way to add ‘plants’ to an area where planting live plants isn’t feasible.
This small front garden had a naturalistic planting theme using white achillea with Mexican evening primrose.
A local store did add some live plants by training a pair of vines over the doorway.
As I passed by these large metal doors, I wondered what lay behind them…
I peeked through a crack and noticed a lovely, little garden. I just wish that I could have seen more.
I have always liked small bungalows and their gardens. Maybe I can have one someday when the kids are gone and we need less room.
Here is another bungalow garden filled with purple prickly pear, a white Texas sage and autumn sage.
The city park had a two rain barrels, painted with rainy themes. It was a great way to demonstrate how homeowners can harvest their own rainwater.
**In closing, I would like to say that it isn’t easy traveling with me. I am always stopping and taking small detours in order to take pictures of plants and landscapes.
My husband is always so patient and doesn’t hesitate to carry my purse for me when my hands are busy holding my camera taking pictures.
Another common occurrence when traveling with a horticulturist is having to stop the truck after passing a lovely (or sometimes bad) landscape.
Again, my husband doesn’t complain – he just pulls over and waits while I run out to take a picture.
In this case, it was a lovely metal fence that had small shelves for pots planted with red yucca, to rest on. There were figures sculpted out of metal as well. It was just lovely.
I hope you enjoyed this small tour of the gardens of Bisbee. I cannot wait to return again someday.
Over the weekend, my husband and I went away for the weekend to celebrate our 28th wedding anniversary.
We had debated on where to go and decided to make the trip to southeastern Arizona. Why this area, you may ask? Well, I have lived in Arizona for 28 years and during the time, have traveled to the northwest, southwest, southern, northern, northeast and eastern regions of the state – but I had never been to the southeastern areas. Our ultimate destination was to be the former mining town of Bisbee, now a popular tourist attraction.
Along the way to Bisbee, we decided to visit Tombstone along the way. My husband had visited Tombstone when he was you, back when many boys dreamed of becoming a cowboy.
If you are a little rusty on your cowboy history, Tombstone is the place the famous gunfight at the O.K. Corral took place in 1881.
The main street is blocked off to cars and is lined on either side by stores and restaurants catering to tourists.
It was an interesting mixture of historical places converted into tourist attractions.
I enjoy visiting museums, so my husband and I headed over to the old courthouse, which has been turned into a museum.
It was very interesting to learn of Tombstone’s history as a silver mining town.
The back of the courtyard was where hangings took place.
Inside, was a diorama where the famous gunfight at the O.K. Corral was depicted with a detailed description of what happened.
Cowboys stood along the side of the main street of Tombstone, which added to the illusion of being taken back in time.
After visiting the attractions along the main street, we decided to stroll through the adjoining streets. There were many old buildings dating back to the late 1880’s that were still standing.
Tombstone is in zone 8a, which means that it gets down to 10 degrees in the winter months. As a result, I was interested in seeing what types of plants did well here.
Coastal Cholla (Cylindropuntia prolifera)
Prickly pears and cholla cacti were in full bloom.
Cow’s Tongue Prickly Pear (Opuntia engelmannii)
There were no lawns to be seen and most of the landscape consisted of a variety of succulents including desert spoon, hesperaloe and yucca.
Yellow Bird-of-Paradise (Caesalpinia gilliesii)
I did see a beautiful yellow bird-of-paradise, which is usually seen in high desert areas where its more cold-tender cousins red bird-of-paradise (Caesalpinia pulcherrima) and Mexican bird-of-paradise (Caesalpinia mexicana) can struggle.
I love how the bright red stamens contrast with the yellow flowers, don’t you? Yellow bird-of-paradise is hardy to -10 degrees or zone 6.
Texas sage as also prevalent in the area.
I wasn’t sure what to think of this collection of container plants.
It consisted of a mixture of plastic pots and toilets planted with live and silk flowers. I’m pretty sure my HOA wouldn’t allow this 😉
While Tombstone was much of what I expected, the history and cowboy themed attractions weren’t my favorite part of our visit…
I invite you to come back for my next post, where I will share with you why this small plant made me so excited and how it is part of a very historic plant!
Join me for my next post about our adventures in Tombstone.
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The selection of these plants has been guided by specific criteria:
Personal Experience: Many of these plants have thrived in my own home garden or in landscapes I’ve overseen.
Low Maintenance: I’ve opted for varieties that require minimal upkeep.
Drought Resistance: These plants are well-suited to dry conditions.
Year-round Beauty: The chosen plant palette guarantees a vibrant display of colors throughout the year, with at least one plant in bloom at any given time.
Trees for the Area
So are you ready to see what I chose?
Let’s start with the trees…
Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis)
The area has two large Foothills Palo Verde trees along with a Wolfberry tree, so I chose one other type of tree to add.
Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis) is one of my favorite desert trees. It is not a true willow, but is named for the fact that its leaves are willow-shaped.
Colorful flowers appear throughout the summer that add a vibrant punch of color to the landscape.
Hardy to zone 6, Desert Willow requires well-drained soil and full sun or filtered shade.
Shrubs for the Area
Now for the shrubs…
Valentine Bush (Eremophila maculata ‘Valentine’)
Valentine Bush (Eremophila maculata ‘Valentine’) is my favorite shrub of all time. I will never forget the day when I was first introduced to this red-flowering shrub, by Mountain States Wholesale Nursery. It was 1999 and I was a horticulturist fresh out of college.
I was given 2 Valentine shrubs from Mountain States to plant in the landscape area I managed. Ever since then, I have been hooked.
Red flowers appear on this shrub, beginning in January and lasting until April. If you haven’t noticed it before, there isn’t much blooming in winter, which is one of the reasons I love Valentine.
The foliage is evergreen and Valentine are hardy to zone 8. Better yet, they only need to be pruned once a year – in spring after flowering.
Plant in full sun and well-drained soil.
For more information about Valentine, check out my post about this great plant.
Baja Ruellia (Ruellia peninsularis)
My second choice for shrubs is Baja Ruellia (Ruellia peninsularis).
Now, this isn’t its rather invasive cousin Ruellia (Ruellia brittoniana), pictured below…
Baja Ruellia is what I like to think of as a smaller version of Texas Sage species (Leucophyllum sp). It doesn’t get as large and has a longer flowering season then Leucophyllum.
The flowers of Baja Ruellia are tubular and appear spring through fall, with the heaviest bloom occurring in spring.
The foliage is light green and rarely suffers frost damage in our zone 9b climate. Hardy to zone 9, Baja Ruellia should be planted in full sun and well-drained soil.
Silvery Cassia (Senna phyllodenia)
The third shrub for this area will be Silvery Cassia (Senna phyllodenia). This Australian native does very well in arid landscapes.
The silvery foliage will provide contrast to the darker greens present in the landscape. Evergreen to 20 degrees, this shrub flourishes in zone 9 landscapes.
Yellow flowers appear in late winter and into spring. Pruning is needed after flowering, to remove seed pods in managed landscapes.
Like the other shrubs, Silvery Cassia enjoys full sun and well-drained soil.
Autumn Sage (Salvia greggii)
The smallest shrub for this area will be Autumn Sage (Salvia greggii). This plant is hard to zone 7, so remains evergreen during winter here.
Flowers appear fall through spring in the low desert. The most common colors are red or pink, although there are other colors such as white, lavender and peach.
I like to use Autumn Sage around trees like Palo Verde, where the filtered shade shelters it from the intense summer sun. I first saw them planted around a tree at the Desert Botanical Garden and I really liked the way it looked, so I have repeated this design in many of my landscapes.
The Autumn Sage above, was planted by me around a Foothills Palo Verde about 12 years ago and they are still going strong.
I still have perennials and accent plants to show you that I have included in the design and I’ll share them with you next time.
*********************************
An Update on my Family
Life around our household has been busy lately….
School is back in session (for which I am extremely grateful for 😉
My son Kai, has ditched his wheelchair for a walker and will soon be able to walk without it.
AND
My daughter, will soon come home after leaving 5 months ago for the Navy. She is graduating from her Equipment Operator School next week and will be an official ‘SeaBee’. She will be on leave for 2 weeks before she reports for combat training in Mississippi, where she will be stationed for a month.
The BEST news is that her permanent base will be in Port Hueneme, which is where she wanted to be. What is even better for us, is that it is in Southern California, just 7 hours from home!!!
We are getting ready to celebrate her homecoming, which I will share with all of you 🙂
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If you like to grow tomatoes AND you live in the desert, then you know how important it is to shade your tomato plants during the summer months.
Most vegetable gardeners haul out 50% shade cloth, which does a great job at shading tomatoes and protecting them from the intense desert sun.
Personally, I don’t particularly like how shade cloth looks. As a horticulturist and landscape designer – I like gardens to look beautiful and that extends to vegetable gardens.
So instead of putting up shade cloth over my tomato plants this year, I decided to create natural shade for them.
My tomatoes are surrounded by giant sunflowers on their east, west and southern sides. If you can only add sunflowers to one side, then choose the west side to protect them from the intense afternoon sun.
Throughout the day, they experience filtered shade. My tomatoes look great without any signs of sunburn.
Sunflowers are easy to grow from seed and you can start planting them in March and continue throughout the summer.
Because sunflowers only live a few months, I have planted a second crop of sunflowers in between my existing sunflowers. I will soon plant a third crop in order to provide shade all summer and into early fall for my tomatoes.
An added bonus to planting sunflowers is that they provide food and shelter for birds and you can enjoy their delicious sunflower seeds.
Another reason to use sunflowers instead of shade cloth for tomatoes is that sunflowers are a lot less expensive then shade cloth and are an inexpensive and sustainable solution.
How about you? What do you use to shade your tomatoes?
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My inbox has been filled lately with pruning questions. Specifically, how to prune back overgrown flowering shrubs.
Chihuahuan Sage (Leucophyllum laevigatum)
You may be wondering why you need to severely prune back overgrown shrubs?
Well, as you can see from the photo, above – as a shrub’s branches age, they produce fewer leaves and flowers. As time passes – these branches die, which leave ugly, bare areas.
Here are a few more examples of overgrown shrubs that need to be severely pruned back…
You may think the formally pruned sage shrubs in the photo above, look okay besides being a bit on the large side.
But, what you don’t see is a large amount of dead branches inside. In reality, these shrubs are covered in a very thin layer of growth.
Here is an example of old Cassia (Senna nemophila) shrubs that have only been pruned formally. You can see that there are more dead areas than live growth.
So, how do you go about severely pruning old, overgrown shrubs back?
First of all – don’t do this during cooler months because it will take your shrubs a very long time to grow back. In addition, it can make frost-tender shrubs more susceptible to frost damage. Wait until spring for pruning back summer-flowering shrubs such as bougainvillea, sage, oleanders, etc.
You need a good pair of loppers and sometimes a pruning saw and you are ready to go. Simply prune your shrub back until there is only about 1 – 2 ft left.
Hedge trimmers can help if you use them to remove the outer part of the shrub and then you can get your loppers inside to prune off larger branches toward the base.
Below, are photos of ‘Rio Bravo’ Sage (Leucophyllum langmaniae ‘Rio Bravo’) shrubs that started out overgrown, were pruned back severely, and grew back.
Overgrown shrubs.
Pruned back to 1 ft.
This is the ugly stage. But you need to go through this ‘awkward’ stage to achieve beautiful, healthy shrubs.
I promise that it doesn’t last long…
New growth appears 3 weeks later
8 weeks after pruning.
12 weeks after severe pruning.
You can see that the severe pruning caused the shrub to grow young, new branches that produce beautiful green growth and flowers.
**Although severe renewal pruning keeps your shrubs healthy and attractive – there are a few cases when an old, overgrown shrub won’t grow back. It is doubtful that the Cassia shrubs, above, will survive for long either with or without severe pruning).
This usually indicates that the shrub has declined too much and would not have survived for long even without pruning. If this happens, you are better off replacing your shrub.**
Hand pruners, pruning saw and loppers
A good guideline for severely pruning your shrubs is to do this every 3 years or so. Of course, you can do this every year if you like to help keep your shrubs from outgrowing their space.
I hope that this helps to answer some of your questions.
If you would like to learn more about how to prune shrubs the right way, I invite you to learn more about my popular online shrub pruning workshop.
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Every winter, we are the lucky recipients of a bounty of citrus from both family and neighbors.
My fruit bowls and pantry are full of blood oranges, grapefruit, and lemons.
Citrus generally ripens during the winter and the cold snap that we had last week had many people picking the citrus fruit from their trees so that the fruit wouldn’t be damaged by the frost.
The problem arises that either I have too many lemons in winter and none in the summer unless I want to spend a ridiculous amount of money on lemons.
So, what do you do?
Well, I juiced them a week ago and made “lemon ice-cubes.”
Then, I promptly forgot about them until I was searching in the freezer for the chicken to thaw out for dinner.
So, I took them out and put my lemon ice cubes into freezer bags.
have three freezer bags full of lemon ice cubes, which will last me through the coming year.
What do I use them for? Well, many of my favorite dinner recipes call for a tablespoon or two of lemon juice, and they are great for making ice tea.
You can also save the lemon zest, (just before you juice them), and freeze the zest too.
My kids love grapefruit (I don’t) and have been eating some for both breakfasts and a snack. They have also been taking the blood oranges to school in their lunch boxes.
My friend, Becky, from Tucson, made ‘Orange Peel Vinegar’ which she uses as a cleaner with her extra oranges.
What do you do with an overabundance of citrus?
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The cold weather has arrived in my neck of the woods with even colder temperatures on their way later this week.
When temperatures dip below 32 degrees, you will find me wearing warm socks, slippers, a sweater, and cardigan when I’m indoors. But, besides me – frost-tender plants are also affected by the cold temperatures.
Have you ever wondered why your plant’s leaves turn brown and crispy after a freeze? Well, ice crystals form on the top of the leaves, which ‘sucks’ out the moisture from the leaf, leaving it brown and crispy.
Many plants handle cold weather just fine and have no problems with frost. However, if you have frost-tender plants, such as bougainvillea, lantana, or yellow bells, you face a choice; Do you leave them unprotected from freezing temperatures and live with the unattractive frost-damaged growth? Or do you protect them when temperatures dip below freezing?
Either choice is fine and is a matter of personal preference. Frost-damaged growth can be pruned back once the last frost of the season has passed (early March where I live). But, if you don’t want to live with brown, crispy plants for a few months, then protecting your plants when temps dip below freezing is necessary.
In the daytime, the sun shines on soil, warming it. At night, the soil releases the warmth from the ground. When you cover your plants – the heat is captured keeping your plants warmer.
Plants aren’t fussy about what type of covering you use (with one exception); old sheets and towels are usually on hand and are easy to use. Burlap and newspaper are also useful as coverings. Cover your frost-tender plants in the evening, making sure that there aren’t any gaps where the heat can escape. You can use large rocks or clothespins to secure them in place. In the day, remove the covers once temperatures have risen above freezing, and allow the sun to warm the soil again.
Don’t keep the coverings on your plants for more than two days in a row without removing them in the day since this can cause water to become trapped underneath, leading to fungal diseases and can cause plants to produce new growth that can be easily damaged by cold.
The best type of frost protection is frost cloth, which is a breathable fabric because it can ‘breathe,’ you can leave the frost cloth on your plants for a longer period. But, use it only when there is a threat of frost. After three days, uncover your plants during the day to allow the sun to reach your plants.
My neighbor made things worse by using plastic as a covering for his citrus trees.
One type of covering that you shouldn’t use is plastic, which transfers the cold to your plants and damages leaves when it touches the plant itself.
In my garden, I only protect my frost-tender trailing lantana which is in a high-profile area next to my entry. The rest of my frost-tender plants, I leave alone until it is time to prune back their frost-damaged growth in spring.
So whether you cover your plants or not, the choice is yours 🙂
For more information on frost protection, check out the following link from the University of Arizona: Frost Protection
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When the sun shines brightly and the aroma of barbecue wafts through the air, you know summer has arrived. But for me, nothing quite captures the essence of this season like the taste of sweet corn. For the past three summers, I’ve reveled in the joy of growing my own sweet corn, and this year promises to be just as delightful.
A Season of Growth and Anticipation
As the days grow longer and the temperatures rise, there’s a remarkable transformation happening in my backyard. It begins with the sprouting of the corn stalks, their vibrant green leaves reaching for the sky. Then, the first delicate appearance of corn silk marks the beginning of a mouthwatering countdown to the ultimate summer treat: fresh-roasted corn on the cob.
Easy Cultivation, Easier Cooking
Growing sweet corn is not only a rewarding experience but also surprisingly easy. However, the real magic happens when you turn those homegrown cobs into a delectable dish. In my quest for a simpler and tastier way to cook corn, I stumbled upon a game-changing roasted corn recipe that eliminates the need for boiling water and shucking corn ahead of time. The best part? It imparts a delicious, roasted flavor that will have your taste buds dancing with joy.
Instructions:
The Roasted Corn Recipe
Let’s dive right into it – here’s how you can effortlessly prepare Oven Roasted Corn on the Cob:
Ingredients:
Fresh ears of corn (with husks still on)
Preheat your oven: Begin by preheating your oven to a toasty 350 degrees Fahrenheit (175 degrees Celsius).
Prepare the corn: Take your whole ears of corn, ensuring that the husks are still on, and place them directly on your oven rack. This step is a game-changer because it allows the corn to roast within its natural protective casing.
Bake to perfection: Slide your corn-laden oven rack into the preheated oven and let them bake for approximately 30 minutes. You’ll be amazed at how this short time span is all it takes to fully cook your corn to perfection.
Unveil the golden treasure: Once the timer goes off, carefully remove the corn from the oven. Then, with gentle hands, pull down the husks. As if by magic, the corn silk will come off easily, leaving you with pristine, golden kernels.
Ready to enjoy: To add the final touch of charm to this delightful dish, use the peeled husks as convenient handles for eating your corn. It’s both practical and visually appealing, making every bite a summer sensation.
There you have it – a fuss-free and incredibly satisfying way to prepare fresh-roasted corn on the cob. It doesn’t get much easier or tastier than this!
Roasted Corn Recipe
Summertime Roasted Corn Bliss
As you revel in the simple pleasures of summer, remember that the joy of growing your own sweet corn can be elevated to new heights with the right recipe. This Oven Roasted Corn on the Cob is not only a time-saver but also a flavor enhancer that will make your summer gatherings truly memorable.
So, fire up that oven, embrace the beauty of your homegrown corn, and savor the flavors of the season with this mouthwatering roasted corn recipe.
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Last winter, I was enjoying a rare moment of peace….no kids or husband in the house, the garden didn’t need any attention and no articles to write. So, I decided to see what was on television. As I was channel surfing, I saw a gardening show and of course, I stopped and watched.
What I saw was the host and featured garden expert, showing how to grow vegetables and flowers together in containers. Since I love both vegetables and flowers, I was intrigued. So I bought the book written by the featured garden expert and got started.
I found nice plastic containers on sale along with some tiny trellises, as well as planting mix (NOT potting soil, which gets too soggy for container plants). Planting mix is specially formulated for containers – it has a light texture and holds just the right amount of moisture for plants.
Then, I started planting. I came up with the vegetable and flower combinations on my own and I must admit that I was happy how they turned out…
The first container has purple violas, spinach, bell pepper plant and nasturtiums. I started all of these from transplants, except for the nasturtiums, which came from seed that I planted.
I periodically snip the spinach for salads and I have harvested a single bell pepper so far. However, there are flowers on my pepper plant, so more peppers are on the way.
This container was planted with red and green leaf lettuce, pink dianthus and cucumbers.
I snip the lettuce for salad and the dianthus has been blooming nonstop. The only problem that I have had with this container are the cucumbers.
Cucumbers do best when started from seed, not transplants. I have grown a lot of cucumbers over the years. So, I placed two small trellises in the back of the container and planted cucumber seeds at their base. I picked a variety of cucumbers that were small and would do well in a container.
Unfortunately, they never came up.
I tried planting them in my regular vegetable garden and they never came up.
I tried starting them indoors and they didn’t sprout.
*I had purchased the seeds online from a very reputable seed company, but the entire package of seeds was defective.
So I planted my go-to cucumber seeds and they are starting to grow beautifully.
My last vegetable/flower container has romaine lettuce, sugar snap peas and Icelandic poppies.
The lettuce has done very well, BUT my little dog discovered that he likes lettuce, and he would take some little bites from the sides of the lettuce. I simply put some plastic patio chairs around the pot and he kept away. Later, I took the chairs away and he left the lettuce alone.
The poppies haven’t bloomed yet, but I can see their buds, so it won’t be long now.
I have been picking off sugar snap peas every time I am in the garden and eating them on the spot.
So, does the idea of growing vegetables and flowers together appeal to you?
The book I read was “Easy Container Combos: Vegetables and Flowers” by Pamela Crawford. (I haven’t been asked to promote her book – I bought it myself and really enjoyed it so much).
I can’t wait to try some different combos this summer once the lettuce fades away. I promise I will share 🙂
**One thing I love so much about gardening is trying new things. This one was a home run for me.
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This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics".
cookielawinfo-checkbox-functional
11 months
The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional".
cookielawinfo-checkbox-necessary
11 months
This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookies is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Necessary".
cookielawinfo-checkbox-others
11 months
This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other.
cookielawinfo-checkbox-performance
11 months
This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance".
viewed_cookie_policy
11 months
The cookie is set by the GDPR Cookie Consent plugin and is used to store whether or not user has consented to the use of cookies. It does not store any personal data.
Functional cookies help to perform certain functionalities like sharing the content of the website on social media platforms, collect feedbacks, and other third-party features.
Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience for the visitors.
Analytical cookies are used to understand how visitors interact with the website. These cookies help provide information on metrics the number of visitors, bounce rate, traffic source, etc.
Advertisement cookies are used to provide visitors with relevant ads and marketing campaigns. These cookies track visitors across websites and collect information to provide customized ads.
