It’s a beautiful summer day outside, yet my mind is on fall and Halloween?
Why?
Because, this is what I discovered growing in my vegetable garden this morning…
Okay, maybe you cannot see it yet, but once you part the leaves…
You can see a white pumpkin happily growing.
I’m so excited to have a pumpkin growing in my garden again.
You might be scratching your head at this point and wonder why I have a pumpkin growing in the middle of summer.
Look at any vegetable planting calendar for zone 9a deserts and you will see that pumpkin seeds should be planted in mid-June if you want pumpkins ready for Halloween.
Pumpkin vines are fairly easy to grow and they will spread out a lot! We found that out the hard way when we grew our first pumpkin vine a few years ago.
Even though pumpkin vines grow well, they rarely form pumpkin fruit (yes, pumpkins are technically a fruit) when planted in the middle June as recommended.
Our first pumpkin in 2010
BUT, pumpkins will often form if you plant the seeds a couple of months early. I’ve grown pumpkins from seeds sown in spring before (click here). Unfortunately, I have had no luck having pumpkins from from seeds sown in June (as recommended).
So my plan is to allow my pumpkin to continue growing and then pick it when it is ripe in late July or early August.
I’ll then store it in a cool, dry place where it should (hopefully) keep until I put out fall decorations in September. I’m hoping it will last through October, but we will see.
*Incidentally, my mother has a white, heirloom pumpkin that she purchased last October that is still doing well and shows no signs of rot.
I planted some heirloom pumpkin seeds from a pumpkin that I bought last fall, and the vine is growing well. I hope to see a pumpkin forming on that vine soon.
From what I have observed, heirloom pumpkins with hard outer skin/shell seem to last a long time.
I’ll keep you updated as to how my pumpkin patch is doing and when my new pumpkin is ready to pick!
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I have been dreaming of converting our backyard into a beautiful, low-maintenance desert landscape.
Right now, it has a large area of grass surrounded by large, flowering shrubs against the wall. I would have loved to have taken out the grass years ago, but my husband and son protested since they would throw the football back and forth each evening before dinner.
low-maintenance desert landscape
But, now my son is almost 12 and often throws the football over the wall, so now I have been give permission to at least start thinking of converting the backyard.
Often, on my way home from a landscape consult, I will mentally design my new backyard garden. I have some concrete ideas, but there is still a lot to be decided.
Whenever I see a landscape area that I like, I stop to take a picture. I have quite a few pictures that I have taken of landscapes that inspire me.
Here are just a few…
Red flowering Chuparosa, growing underneath native mesquite and foothills palo verde trees. A hedgehog cactus grows by a large boulder. Mexican bird-of-paradise, trained as trees are growing in the background.
Goodding’s verbena, chuparosa and brittlebush blooming with creosote bush in the background.
Desert ruellia provides an attractive background for golden barrel cacti. This area needs to be pruned once every 2 years.
Young palo verde tree with potted artichoke agave.
I am still in the “designing inside my mind” stage, but will soon need to put things down on paper. I have my drafting supplies ready to go once I am.
Of course, the entire project hinges on having enough money for large containers, big boulders, trees, plants, dirt for mounds and paying someone to rip out our grass.
I would hope to be able to do this next winter, but we will see…
Which one of the landscape areas above do you like best?
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Have you seen the Chihuly art display at the Desert Botanical Garden?
What did you think?
Do you love seeing his beautiful artwork displayed in the garden?
Or, are you of the opinion that it detracts from the plants and their more subtle beauty?
For those of you not familiar with Dale Chihuly, he is a famous, glass artist whose work is displayed throughout museum and botanical gardens throughout the world.
Chihuly glass displayed on the ceiling of the lobby at the Bellagio Hotel in Las Vegas.
I have many friends who are huge fans of seeing Chihuly’s art displayed throughout the garden.
There are others though, who feel that the art overshadows the surrounding plants.
My three youngest kids and granddaughter. Note the flowering Aloe Vera and the orange Chihuly art in the background.
Last month, my husband and I took our kids & granddaughter to the Desert Botanical Garden.
While they thought that the glass artwork was ‘cool’, the kids were more excited about visiting the Butterfly Pavilion and in my granddaughter’s case – smelling all the flowers.
I am a strong proponent for including color in the garden, usually by adding plants with variegated foliage and/or flowering plants.
Of course, a brightly-colored wall or container is also a great way to introduce color to the garden.
My personal opinion is that art in the garden should be complementary and not overshadow the plants. In most areas, I feel that the Desert Botanical Garden got the right balance, but there were a couple of areas where I felt the art overwhelmed their surroundings.
While walking through the garden, I did enjoy seeing unexpected sightings of the glass, artfully displayed alongside some of the plants.
For many visitors, the Chihuly exhibit is the highlight of their visit to the garden.
I must admit that while I did admire the art, the horticulturist in me tends to focus more on the plants.
But, that didn’t stop me from having my picture taken next to some of the beautiful art 🙂
I would love to hear your thoughts on the Chihuly exhibit at the Desert Botanic Garden (or any other garden).
**If you want to see the Chihuly Exhibit, you’d better hurry – the last day is May 18th.
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Have you ever made a discovery that was literally under your nose?
I did.
Earlier this month, I embarked on a tour of low-water gardens that displayed sustainable design throughout the greater Phoenix area.
The earlier parts of our tour showed examples of water harvesting using cisterns along with man-made arroyos. Then we viewed a creative example of sustainable design for a beautiful parking lot that needed no supplemental water and little to no maintenance.
I mentioned last week that I had saved the best for last and I can’t wait to share with you this jewel in the midst of a desert city.
The last stop on our tour of low-water and sustainable gardens was the Scottsdale Xeriscape Demonstration Garden.
The garden is just over 5 acres and sits hidden from the street next to Chaparral Park in central Scottsdale.
Over 200 different types of plants are used throughout the garden, all of which are drought-tolerant and well-adapted to our hot, dry climate.
My friend and fellow blogger, Pam Penick, came with me to this beautiful garden (you can see her at the top of the terraced planters).
One of my favorite parts of the garden included this innovative design, called the ‘Terraced Cascade’ which creates the appearance of water traveling down between terraced planters filled with Palo Blanco trees (Acacia willardiana) and Desert Marigold (Baileya multiradiata).
Water does flow down discretely hidden steps between the terraces during times of heavy rainfall toward the water harvest basin where it waters existing plants before flowing underground toward the nearby lake.
Raised planters were filled with flowering Ocotillo as well as Birdcage Evening Primrose (Oenothera deltoides).
Birdcage Evening Primrose (Oenothera deltoides) in the foreground and Mexican Evening Primrose (Oenothera berlanderi) growing against the Ocotillo.
I must admit that I was surprised to find this garden in an area that I used to spend a lot of time in.
Years ago, before the garden existed, my husband and I would take evening walks around the nearby lake with our daughter. Believe it or not, before there was a garden, there used to be a miniature golf course in this location.
I love stone walls and would have some in my own garden, if I could afford them. The stone walls were capped with flagstone and had rows of round stones, which added an unexpected touch of texture.
From our vantage point, we could see to the other side of the garden where a tall, dead tree stood. Trees like this are called a ‘snag’, which is a dead or dying tree. This tree provides a home for hawks, which help keep the rabbit population down.
Baja Fairy Duster (Calliandra californica) and Desert Marigold (Baileya multiradiata)
Gabion walls were used along pathways to created terraces to help slow down storm water in order to reduce flooding while watering the plants.
The demonstration garden is located next to a water treatment plant and part of the garden sits on top of a reservoir that contains 5.5 million gallons of treated water.
Deer Grass in the foreground.
One of the things that I enjoy about demonstration gardens is that they ‘demonstrate’ different gardening methods as well as showcasing plants.
In this case, I was impressed with the collection of plant species used, which aren’t typically seen in residential or commercial landscapes, which is a shame.
As we walked down the main path, we came upon a man-made, mesquite ‘bosque’. The word ‘bosque’ is used to refer to stands of trees nearby rivers or washes throughout the southwestern United States. Usually, you’ll find these bosques made up of mesquite trees.
This bosque was planted with Honey Mesquite trees (Prosopis glandulosa), which is simply stunning in spring when it’s bright-green leaves reappear. A warning though – it has thorns.
Palo Brea (Parkinsonia praecox) trees and gabion walls line the main walkway.
Plants are maintained just the way I like them – no shearing or over-pruning.
Gold Mound Lantana, Orange Bush Lantana and Pink & White Globe Mallow.
The main pathway parallels the local dog park.
There is little that can compare to the beauty of the new spring leaves of mesquite trees. I love how the coral-colored variety of Bougainvillea and the yellow flowers of Aloe Vera look like brightly-colored jewels along with the leaves of the mesquite.
Nearing the end of the trail, I couldn’t help but marvel at this beautiful garden and its creative design.
Throughout the garden were educational signs talking about a myriad of gardening subjects that were clearly illustrated by the garden itself including planning and design, plant care and desert habitat.
A large cistern was located on one end of the trail, which was filled with the average amount of water that a household uses in 1 week.
Around the outer border of the cistern is an American Indian saying that says:
“THE FROG DOES NOT DRINK UP THE POND IN WHICH HE LIVES”
Those are words that all of us who live in the dry, southwest should all ponder…
I hope you have enjoyed these posts of our tour of sustainable, southwestern landscapes in the greater Phoenix area.
Pam and I drove about 170 miles in one day and we weren’t able to see all of the great examples of sustainable landscaping. However, if you are interested in seeing examples of sustainable gardening, then I would recommend starting at the Desert Botanical Garden, which is filled with arid-adapted plants that thrive in our climate with minimal water and fuss.
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Do you ever get tired of seeing the same plants showing up in landscapes time after time?
It doesn’t matter whether you live in the desert or in more temperate climates – there are always 5 – 10 varieties of plants that are used over and over.
Even though these plants may be attractive, the fact that they are seen everywhere makes the landscapes they are in somewhat unremarkable and therefore ‘forgettable’.
As a horticulturist, I am always on the lookout for different plants to use in landscapes. Last week, I visited the Desert Botanical Garden’s Plant Sale, which is a great place to go to see the newest plant introductions along with lesser-known plants that grow in our desert climate.
In an earlier post, I shared about new plant colors available for well-known plants. Today, I thought that I would share with you some lesser-known plants that you may want to try out in your garden.
I love the name of this small, flowering shrub – ‘Lipstick’. While the flowers closely resemble those of Autumn Sage (Salvia greggii), they are from a different plant (Salvia microphylla ‘Lipstick’).
Both plants are closely related and their requirements are the same. So you would use the same way as you would Autumn Sage. Hardy to zone 8 – 11, ‘Lipstick’ does best with afternoon or filtered shade in desert gardens. I like to plant them around the base of Palo Verde trees. Flowers will appear fall, winter and spring.
This is ground cover with large Australian-shaped plant tags is a new introduction that is very exciting.
Called ‘Outback Sunrise Emu’ (Eremophila glabra mingenew gold ‘Outback Sunrise’) is a great addition to the desert garden palette.
My first opportunity to see this plant was during a visit to the master-planned community of Verrado, where it is planted throughout the medians.
In spring, yellow flowers appear covering this evergreen ground cover. A single plant grows 1 foot high and 6 – 10 feet wide.
‘Outback Sunrise Emu’ thrives in full sun or filtered shade, is hardy to zone 8 – 11 and is drought-tolerant. It may be a little hard to find in nurseries right now, but it is well worth the effort.
For those of us who love agaves, then I have a new one for you to try. Agave ‘Blue Glow’ is a hybrid of two different agaves (A. attenuata and A. ocahui).
Like its name suggests, the leaves seem to ‘glow’. My mother has one that she purchased years ago at the Huntington Botanical Gardens in Pasadena, CA. It moved with her from California to Arizona where it does very well.
‘Blue Glow’ is a smaller agave that grows 1 – 2 feet high and 2 – 3 feet wide. It does require filtered or afternoon shade in desert gardens.
This gray shrub was definitely the most unique plant that I encountered at the plant sale.
Pearl Bluebush (Maireana sedifolia) is another great import from Australia. The leaves are succulent and I couldn’t help but keep touching them.
This drought-tolerant shrub thrives in full sun, is hardy to zone 9 – 11 and will grow 3 – 5 feet tall and wide.
I would plant it near dark-green ground covers where the gray color will provide great contrast.
Blue Bells (Eremophila hygrophana) is rapidly on its way to becoming one of my top 5 shrubs.
It closely resembles the gray-colored sages of (Leucophyllum). While they do share many similar characteristics – blue/purple flowers, drought-tolerance and the ability to thrive in full, desert sun – there are some differences.
Blue Bells are hardy to zone 8 – 11 and stay rather compact at 3 ft. tall and wide and rarely need pruning. In addition, it flowers all year long.
I recently included these shrubs in a re-design of a church landscape and am very happy with how they look.
I am always attracted to salvias of all kinds, so I found myself paying particular attention to all of the different species available.
The dark pink flowers of Chiapis Sage (Salvia chiapensis) caught my eye and I was sorely tempted to buy one.
This salvia grows to 2 ft. tall and 3 ft. wide. Hardy to zone 8, the flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds.
Chiapis Sage does best in filtered shade and fertile soil. Because I don’t have any room in my areas with filtered shade, I didn’t buy this salvia.
I was intrigued by this shrub, which is a relative of Baja Fairy Duster (Calliandra californica), which I do like to use in landscapes.
This is Red Powder Puff (Calliandra haematocephala).
I had not heard of this shrub before, so I was immediately curious. It looks like the flowers resemble those of its cousins Baja & Pink Fairy Duster. But, its leaves are much larger.
Hardy to zones 8 – 11, it will grow large – 4 – 10 feet tall and wide. Filtered shade would probably be best if growing this shrub in a desert garden.
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I hope you have enjoyed some of these new plants that are definitely worth a second look.
Next time, I’ll share with a few helpful tips when shopping for plants along with the 3 plants that I bought from the plant sale.
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Last week, I was visiting one of my favorite clients when I noticed that one of her citrus trees was showing signs of sunburn, which led to me explaining to her that even citrus trees need sunscreen to prevent sunburn in many cases.
Recognizing Sunburn Symptoms
You can see the lighter-colored bark and some cracks as well along the branch. It turns out that citrus trees are very susceptible to sunburn.
Why Sunburned Citrus Trees Are a Concern
So, why is a sunburned citrus tree something to be worried about?
Well, when a tree becomes sunburned, it often forms cracks in the bark and within these cracks, damaging insects or fungus can find a nice home. Frost damage can also cause cracks in the bark.
In recent years, I have had to deliver bad news to people whose citrus trees became infected with sooty canker, which is a fungal disease that affects the branches and trunks, which takes root underneath the cracked, flaky bark.
Managing and Protecting Your Citrus Trees
Several times, I have had to tell homeowners that their much-loved citrus tree was badly infected with sooty canker and had to be removed. You can read more about the signs and treatment of sooty canker, here. Citrus can have many types of concerns. Sunburn is a concern as well, but you can protect your trees.
Preventing Sunburn; Citrus Trees Need Sunscreen
Thankfully, there are things we can do to reduce or eliminate the chance of sunburn to our citrus trees. Citrus trees need sunscreen.
1. Encourage Lower Branch Growth
Allow citrus trees to grow their lower branches. They will help to shade the trunk. A bonus for citrus trees grown this way is that the most fruit is produced on the lower branches that also tastes sweeter.
2. Use Protective Measures
Protect exposed trunks and branches by using citrus paint (available at your local nursery) or by simply mixing white latex paint water so that the resulting mixture is 1/2 paint and 1/2 water. You can also purchase tree wraps made from burlap, which can also help to protect them. Avoid using oil-based paint.
However, if you allow the lower branches of your citrus tree to grow and the trunk is shaded, than you don’t have to paint them.
3. Prune Wisely
Don’t over-prune your citrus trees. The photo above, is an EXTREME example of what not to do.
Citrus trees should be pruned in March, and concentrated on removing dead, diseased or crossing branches. Avoid pruning more then 20% of its foliage in any given year. Remember, that the leaves make food for the tree, which will in turn, produce delicious fruit. If pruning leaves you with exposed branches, then coat them with citrus paint.
**See how to protect citrus from the damaging effects of a heat wave – here.
A little note about sun exposure: I always wear sunscreen whenever I venture outdoors. Years spent in California at the beach as a teenager, trying to tan my fair skin did not work. Now, I try very hard to protect my skin from the desert sun. I do however, often forget to wear my hat as it does mess up my hair 😉
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**Disclosure: This post contains an affiliate link of a product that I use in my garden and I recommend to those who are experiencing similar problems.
A week ago, I was called to see one of my regular clients to see how her landscape was progressing since she had installed a lot of new plants at the beginning of summer.
The majority of her plants looked great considering she had planted them at a particularly tough time of the year.
BUT, what caught my attention was her bougainvillea shrub.
The leaves were quite ragged and looked like something had been chewing them.
In addition, there were some small black droppings scattered among the leaves.
The diagnosis was relatively simple…
The culprit was bougainvillea looper caterpillars.
Now, you rarely ever see the caterpillar itself. It is rather small and looks like a yellow-green to brown colored inch-worm.
The signs are ragged leaves that appear to have been chewed along with the black droppings.
My bougainvillea growing in the back garden. I haven’t seen any signs of caterpillar damage yet.
If you see similar damage to your Bougainvillea, don’t panic. Most Bougainvillea can handle the damage from the chewed leaves.
However, if your Bougainvillea is young, or if the infestation is severe, you can help to get rid of the caterpillars by spraying your bougainvillea with a product containing BT (bacillus thuringiensis), which is an organic pesticide. I use Safer Brand 5163 Caterpillar Killer II Concentrate, 16 oz in my own garden.
In the case of my client’s bougainvillea, I told her that the damage was not severe enough to warrant any treatment.
Some of you may see similar damage to your yellow bells or orange jubilee shrubs, which I wrote about in a previous post, “Oh No, What’s Happened to My Shrubs”.
**In the future, I will be sharing some gardening problems or design challenges that I encounter during some of my consults and their solutions.
My hope is that they can help you in your own landscape 🙂
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I hope you have a great weekend. We will be celebrating my 3-year old twin nephews birthday at our house tomorrow morning. I’ll may post a picture or two next week from the party.
My daughter, Rachele, is doing well after the first week of her combat training in Mississippi. But, she did share some funny stories that I will share with you next week too!
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The selection of these plants has been guided by specific criteria:
Personal Experience: Many of these plants have thrived in my own home garden or in landscapes I’ve overseen.
Low Maintenance: I’ve opted for varieties that require minimal upkeep.
Drought Resistance: These plants are well-suited to dry conditions.
Year-round Beauty: The chosen plant palette guarantees a vibrant display of colors throughout the year, with at least one plant in bloom at any given time.
Trees for the Area
So are you ready to see what I chose?
Let’s start with the trees…
Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis)
The area has two large Foothills Palo Verde trees along with a Wolfberry tree, so I chose one other type of tree to add.
Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis) is one of my favorite desert trees. It is not a true willow, but is named for the fact that its leaves are willow-shaped.
Colorful flowers appear throughout the summer that add a vibrant punch of color to the landscape.
Hardy to zone 6, Desert Willow requires well-drained soil and full sun or filtered shade.
Shrubs for the Area
Now for the shrubs…
Valentine Bush (Eremophila maculata ‘Valentine’)
Valentine Bush (Eremophila maculata ‘Valentine’) is my favorite shrub of all time. I will never forget the day when I was first introduced to this red-flowering shrub, by Mountain States Wholesale Nursery. It was 1999 and I was a horticulturist fresh out of college.
I was given 2 Valentine shrubs from Mountain States to plant in the landscape area I managed. Ever since then, I have been hooked.
Red flowers appear on this shrub, beginning in January and lasting until April. If you haven’t noticed it before, there isn’t much blooming in winter, which is one of the reasons I love Valentine.
The foliage is evergreen and Valentine are hardy to zone 8. Better yet, they only need to be pruned once a year – in spring after flowering.
Plant in full sun and well-drained soil.
For more information about Valentine, check out my post about this great plant.
Baja Ruellia (Ruellia peninsularis)
My second choice for shrubs is Baja Ruellia (Ruellia peninsularis).
Now, this isn’t its rather invasive cousin Ruellia (Ruellia brittoniana), pictured below…
Baja Ruellia is what I like to think of as a smaller version of Texas Sage species (Leucophyllum sp). It doesn’t get as large and has a longer flowering season then Leucophyllum.
The flowers of Baja Ruellia are tubular and appear spring through fall, with the heaviest bloom occurring in spring.
The foliage is light green and rarely suffers frost damage in our zone 9b climate. Hardy to zone 9, Baja Ruellia should be planted in full sun and well-drained soil.
Silvery Cassia (Senna phyllodenia)
The third shrub for this area will be Silvery Cassia (Senna phyllodenia). This Australian native does very well in arid landscapes.
The silvery foliage will provide contrast to the darker greens present in the landscape. Evergreen to 20 degrees, this shrub flourishes in zone 9 landscapes.
Yellow flowers appear in late winter and into spring. Pruning is needed after flowering, to remove seed pods in managed landscapes.
Like the other shrubs, Silvery Cassia enjoys full sun and well-drained soil.
Autumn Sage (Salvia greggii)
The smallest shrub for this area will be Autumn Sage (Salvia greggii). This plant is hard to zone 7, so remains evergreen during winter here.
Flowers appear fall through spring in the low desert. The most common colors are red or pink, although there are other colors such as white, lavender and peach.
I like to use Autumn Sage around trees like Palo Verde, where the filtered shade shelters it from the intense summer sun. I first saw them planted around a tree at the Desert Botanical Garden and I really liked the way it looked, so I have repeated this design in many of my landscapes.
The Autumn Sage above, was planted by me around a Foothills Palo Verde about 12 years ago and they are still going strong.
I still have perennials and accent plants to show you that I have included in the design and I’ll share them with you next time.
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An Update on my Family
Life around our household has been busy lately….
School is back in session (for which I am extremely grateful for 😉
My son Kai, has ditched his wheelchair for a walker and will soon be able to walk without it.
AND
My daughter, will soon come home after leaving 5 months ago for the Navy. She is graduating from her Equipment Operator School next week and will be an official ‘SeaBee’. She will be on leave for 2 weeks before she reports for combat training in Mississippi, where she will be stationed for a month.
The BEST news is that her permanent base will be in Port Hueneme, which is where she wanted to be. What is even better for us, is that it is in Southern California, just 7 hours from home!!!
We are getting ready to celebrate her homecoming, which I will share with all of you 🙂
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If you like to grow tomatoes AND you live in the desert, then you know how important it is to shade your tomato plants during the summer months.
Most vegetable gardeners haul out 50% shade cloth, which does a great job at shading tomatoes and protecting them from the intense desert sun.
Personally, I don’t particularly like how shade cloth looks. As a horticulturist and landscape designer – I like gardens to look beautiful and that extends to vegetable gardens.
So instead of putting up shade cloth over my tomato plants this year, I decided to create natural shade for them.
My tomatoes are surrounded by giant sunflowers on their east, west and southern sides. If you can only add sunflowers to one side, then choose the west side to protect them from the intense afternoon sun.
Throughout the day, they experience filtered shade. My tomatoes look great without any signs of sunburn.
Sunflowers are easy to grow from seed and you can start planting them in March and continue throughout the summer.
Because sunflowers only live a few months, I have planted a second crop of sunflowers in between my existing sunflowers. I will soon plant a third crop in order to provide shade all summer and into early fall for my tomatoes.
An added bonus to planting sunflowers is that they provide food and shelter for birds and you can enjoy their delicious sunflower seeds.
Another reason to use sunflowers instead of shade cloth for tomatoes is that sunflowers are a lot less expensive then shade cloth and are an inexpensive and sustainable solution.
How about you? What do you use to shade your tomatoes?
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