Four Days of Garden Gifts: Day 3 – Books for Southwest Gardening

Arizona garden, Book Review, Cactus/Succulents, California desert garden, desert gardening, Drought Tolerant, Gift Ideas, herb gardening, Las Vegas gardening, Nevada garden, New Mexico garden, Product Review, Southwest garden, Southwest Texas garden, Succulent Gardening

Discover the Perfect Garden Gifts: Day 3 – Books for Southwest Gardeners

It’s Day 3 of our garden gift ideas and today it’s all about books.

Unveiling the Arid Beauty of Southwest Gardening

Gardening in the Southwest can be challenging because many of the traditional gardening rules. Some plants just don’t work here. Traditional garden literature often ignores the unique opportunities and challenges that our arid climate presents. A good book that focuses on our distinct region can become an invaluable tool. As a garden writer, I know many garden authors and have been asked to review many books, and I include my top eight with you.

As a garden writer, I’ve been asked to review some garden books and know several of the authors personally and can attest to their expertise in gardening in the Southwest.

*This blog post contains affiliate links. If you click through and make a purchase, I may receive a commission (at no additional cost to you).

1. Southwest Fruit & Vegetable Gardening

Our dry climate is an ideal region for growing fruits and vegetables. We have fewer insect pests and diseases than, in contrast, more temperate areas. From apples, peaches, to citrus – many types of fruit can be grown here. Vegetable gardening is a favorite pastime of mine. Due to our relatively mild winters, we can grow them throughout the entire year. Tucson native, Jacqueline Soule, teaches you how to create your own edible, southwestern garden. Click here to order.

2. Gardening In The Deserts of Arizona

Mary Irish is one of my favorite authors and worked for years at the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix. Her books are what I like to refer to as the ‘bible’ of growing ornamental plants in the Southwest. From lists of plants that grow well in our climate to how to maintain them each month, this book is a must-have for new (and old) desert gardeners. She has written several books. This is a good one to start with as it breaks down how to care for your garden. I met her at a conference in California and found her utterly charming and down to earth. Click here to order.

3. Lawn Gone

Austin, Texas resident, Pam Penick, is well known for her blog, Digging. Pam makes frequent contributions to a variety of gardening magazines. Her approach is saving water in the garden by removing or minimizing lawn areas, with an emphasis on simple and creative design solutions. I am fortunate to call Pam my friend and have toured gardens with her in Arizona and California. I’ve owned this book for several years. It ranks as one of my favorites. Click here to order.

4. Potted

Annette Gutierrez asked me to review her book. She and Mary own a trendy garden shop in Los Angeles that focuses on outdoor accessories and design services. As its title suggests, this book focuses on instructing readers on how to create unique containers using everyday items. The results are eye-catching and add a welcome design element to garden spaces. This book is for those on your list who like to be on the cutting edge of gardening trends. Click here to order.

5. Growing Vegetables in Drought, Desert, and Dry Times

If you or someone on your gift list like to grow vegetables, this is an invaluable book. Specifically, it addresses the cultivation of an edible garden in an arid climate. This emphasizes the importance of mastering the skill of maximizing your harvest while efficiently managing water.

The author draws upon her experience of living and gardening in the desert regions of California. Grouping this book along with packets of vegetable seeds and a raised bed kit, would be a much-appreciated gift for a beginning vegetable gardener. Click here to order.

6. Homegrown Herb Garden

Herbs are very easy to grow and flourish in arid climates. I grow them in pots, a vegetable garden, and indoors. Moreover, one of the authors, Ann McCormick, also known as the ‘Herb n’ Cowgirl,’ has a blog by the same name. This book provides helpful growing tips along with how to use them to flavor your favorite dishes making it a great choice for the gardener and cook on your list. Click here to order yours.

7. Trees and Shrubs for the Southwest

Many gardening books contain smaller lists of plants. This Mary Irish book has comprehensive lists of shrubs and trees that flourish in the Southwest. It delves beyond the often repeated plant palette of bougainvillea, oleander, and Texas sage. The book delves into the impressive variety of plants that can grow here. This book is a thoughtful choice for those who want to learn more about the plants that can grow in our arid climate. Click here to order.

8. The Water-Saving Garden

This book holds a special place for me because of Pam Penick. She made a journey to visit me in Arizona to research her book. We spent an entire day together visiting gardens throughout the greater Phoenix area (including mine), covering over one-hundred-fifty miles. Many of the photos that she took that day are in the book. As its title suggests, the book focuses on how to create lovely gardens that don’t need a lot of water. Click here to order.

All of these books will serve to inspire and teach the gardener on your list,. These books teach how to create a beautiful garden that will thrive in the arid Southwest climate.

More ideas needed? Here you go –

Want more ideas? Check out Day 1 and Day 2 of my garden gift ideas.

Tomorrow, I’ll share my picks for garden gifts for kids.

Sprays of Pink

Arizona garden, California desert garden, desert gardening, Drought Tolerant, Southwest garden

The Beauty of Queen Wreath Vine: A Love Affair with Pink

Queen wreath vine (Antigonon leptopus)

Like many women, I have not outgrown my teenage love affair with the color pink. However, instead of painting the walls of my room a vibrant shade of pink or wearing a fluorescent t-shirt, I now content myself with using it in the garden.

Queen Wreath Vine: A Delicate Climber

The Queen wreath vine (Antigonon leptopus), also known by its botanical name Antigonon leptopus, is a charming addition to any garden. Sometimes named Coral Vine or Mexican Creeper, this delicate climber graces my garden with its vibrant pink blossoms, creating a stunning display against the backdrop of my cascalote tree. The allure of pink is something I’ve held onto since my teenage years, and this beautiful vine allows me to incorporate that love into my outdoor space.

Heart-Shaped Buds and Lush Green Leaves

What sets this vine apart are its unique heart-shaped buds that eventually unfurl into beautiful pink blossoms. Paired with its lush green leaves, the vine adds a touch of romance and elegance to my garden. Its ability to climb and twine around my tree’s trunk creates a visual spectacle that I eagerly await each spring.

A Seasonal Wonder

While this special vine brings joy to my garden, it’s important to note that it is not a year-round presence. In the winter, it dies back to the ground, leaving behind only memories of its vibrant display. However, the anticipation of its return in the spring is part of what makes this vine so special. As the temperatures rise and the days grow longer, the vine begins its ascent up the trunk of my tree, signaling the start of another season of enchanting pink blossoms.

How to Grow Queen wreath vine (Antigonon leptopus)

Here’s a list of steps on how to grow this beautiful vine:

Choose the Right Location: Select a suitable location for planting your Queen wreath vine. It thrives in full sun to partial shade, so make sure it receives adequate sunlight.
Prepare the Soil: Ensure the soil is well-draining and rich in organic matter. If the soil is heavy or clayey, consider amending it with compost to improve drainage.
Planting: Plant your Queen wreath vine either by sowing seeds or by transplanting a young plant. Spring is the best time to plant this vine.
Spacing: Space the plants about 10 to 12 feet apart or provide sturdy support structures for the vine to climb.
Support Structures: Queen wreath vine is a climbing plant, so it requires a trellis, arbor, or similar structure for support. Install the support system before planting or soon after to avoid disturbing the plant.
Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged during the growing season. Once the plant is established, it can tolerate some drought.
Fertilization: Fertilize your Queen wreath vine with a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer during the growing season. Follow the recommended dosage on the fertilizer package.
Pruning: Regularly prune the vine to maintain its shape and control its growth. Pruning is typically done in late winter or early spring before new growth begins.
Winter Care: In colder regions, Queen wreath vine may die back to the ground during winter. Provide a layer of mulch to protect the roots and encourage regrowth in the spring.
Pest and Disease Management: Keep an eye out for common garden pests like aphids and scale insects. Treat any infestations promptly with appropriate methods or insecticidal soap. This vine is generally resistant to most diseases.
Propagation: If you want to propagate more Queen wreath vines, you can do so by taking softwood cuttings in the spring or by collecting seeds.
Enjoy the Blooms: Once established, your Queen wreath vine will reward you with beautiful pink blossoms during the growing season. These heart-shaped blooms will create a stunning visual display in your garden.

Remember that Queen wreath vine can be invasive in some regions, so be cautious and monitor its growth, especially if you’re in an area where it is not native. Enjoy the vibrant beauty and charm this lovely vine brings to your garden.

Have You Met Antigonon leptopus?

Have you ever grown an Antigonon leptopus, also known as Queen wreath vine? For those who haven’t had the pleasure, this pink beauty is a must-have addition to any garden. Its climbing nature and heart-shaped buds make it a captivating plant that adds a touch of whimsy and elegance to your outdoor space. If you’d like to learn more about this delightful vine, be sure to read my earlier post on the subject.

The vine is a testament to the enduring allure of pink in our lives, and I can’t imagine my garden without its vibrant, heart-shaped blossoms.

For more information, you can read my earlier post about this pink beauty.

How to Protect Citrus Trees from a Heatwave

Arizona garden, California desert garden, Citrus, desert gardening, Irrigation, Landscape Problems, Las Vegas gardening, Southwest garden, Southwest Texas garden, Trees

Living in the desert southwest has its perks, I am blessed to be able to grow a variety of citrus trees in my garden and they do very well under most circumstances because I protect citrus trees during hot weather.

However, when temperatures outside of the average highs and lows occur, steps need to be taken to protect them. With this week’s record-breaking highs, my orange tree has been suffering as is evident from its sunburned leaves. So I thought, this is a great opportunity to talk about how to protect citrus trees from a heatwave.

Citrus tree covered with burlap in order to protect it from extreme heat and sun

1. Protect Citrus Trees Provide Temporary Shade

Sunburn isn’t just a human woe; it affects citrus trees too. The west and south-facing sides of citrus trees are susceptible to sunburn during a heatwave. This shows up as yellowing or browning on the leaves on those sides of the tree. Sunburn can also occur on immature citrus fruit, so it’s important to protect them.

Burlap is a Great Shade Cover for Trees

While spraying citrus trees with sunscreen isn’t an option, adding temporary shade is, especially for citrus trees facing south and west that are particularly vulnerable. Put a large piece of burlap over the tree, focusing on those south and west-facing exposures. Burlap is lightweight and inexpensive. It allows some sun to penetrate, which is important, without overwhelming the tree. You can purchase burlap at your big box store, nursery, or Amazon (affiliate link below).

Burlapper Burlap Garden Fabric (40″ x 15′, Natural)

Shade Cloth Protects Citrus Trees

Shade cloth is an adaptable guardian against sunburn. Whether draped over a scaffold or enlisted to shield neighboring plants, its sun-blocking power proves invaluable during heatwaves. You can easily use a bed sheet in place of burlap for temporary shade. Another option would be to place a shade tent/canopy to help block the sun’s westerly rays.

Shade cloth is very useful as a sun shield when placed on a scaffold or other support – it also works great to help protect other plants in your garden.

Protect citrus trees from a heat wave by watering regularly

2. Increase Irrigation and Water Early to Protect Citrus Trees

When temperatures soar above normal, citrus trees, like most plants, lose more water through their leaves. As a result, their regular watering schedule isn’t enough to meet their needs, so increase the frequency of watering as long as the heat wave lasts.

The Morning Watering Advantage for Citrus

Watering isn’t just about quantity; timing matters. When you water is vital as it is difficult for plants to uptake water in the middle of the day. This is because all of their resources are dedicated to enduring the stresses of the heat and it’s hard for them to divert those to uptake water. Water in the early morning, will allow them to build up a water reserve that will help them bolster their endurance throughout the day.

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Restoration after the Extreme Heat and Sun

When the heatwave subsides, it’s time to bid farewell to temporary shade. Remove the temporary shade in order to protect citrus trees for cooler conditions. As temperatures stabilize, return to your usual watering schedule. By implementing these two proven techniques, you’re empowering your citrus trees to defy the scorching grip of brutal summer temperatures and minimize any negative effects.

Beyond Heatwaves: Year-Round Trunk and Bark Care to Protect Citrus Trees

Remember, safeguarding citrus trees transcends seasons. Ensuring your trees’ trunks and bark receive proper sun protection is a year-long responsibility. Explore this previous blog post for insights on why and how to provide this vital shield.

Give Water Features New Life With Succulents

Arizona garden, Cactus/Succulents, California desert garden, desert gardening, Drought Tolerant, Fuss Free Plant, Garden Travels, Nevada garden, New Mexico garden, Southwest garden, Southwest Texas garden, Succulent Gardening

Echeveria and aloe planted in an old water fountain in Santa Barbara, CA.

Water features have long had a prominent spot in the landscape, where the both the beauty and sound of water help to create an enjoyable outdoor atmosphere.

However, water features can be high maintenance, messy to clean, and can be problematic in arid climates where water is a precious resource. Because of these reasons, it’s not unusual to see an empty water feature sitting empty without purpose.

In both my garden travels and work as a landscape consultant, I like to discover new uses for water features or ways to mimic the appearance of water, which succulents can fulfill beautifully.

A sink full of succulent plants spill out in the Barrio Garden section of the Tucson Botanical Gardens

Water features and succulents can add welcome interest, from simulating the movement of water with their shapes to taking the place of water in the basin.

Plumbing hardware can be used, along with succulents, to create an artistic arrangement in the garden such as these galvanized buckets and water pipes.

Succulents can also add a lovely planting around water features like the example above with lady’s slipper (Euphorbia macrocarpus), and it’s unique ‘Medusa-like’ growth habit adds an unexpected design element. It is important to keep succulents far enough away from getting any over splash from the water as they need dry soil to grow in.

Containers filled with succulents can make an attractive backdrop for a water feature as they are low-maintenance and their distinctive shapes add welcome texture.

Visit any nursery, and you’ll notice how popular succulents are, as they make up a larger percentage of the plants on display, tempting people to add them to their gardens.

So go ahead and give your water feature new life with succulents!

How Succulents Can Help Solve Common Garden Dilemmas

Spring Cleaning in the Garden: How to Prune Shrubs

Arizona garden, AZ Plant Lady, California desert garden, desert gardening, Garden Video, Nevada garden, New Mexico garden, Pruning, Shrubs, Southwest garden, Southwest Texas garden

Globe Mallow (Sphaeralcea ambigua) before pruning

We had experienced a delightful spring with hot temperatures staying away for the most part. The weather has been so lovely that I’ve been spending a lot of time out in the garden. One garden task that has needed to get done is pruning back my winter/spring flowering shrubs.

What are winter/spring flowering shrubs you may ask? Well, they are those that flower primarily in late winter and on into spring. In the Southwest garden, they include cassia (Senna species), globe mallow (Sphaeralcea ambigua), and Valentine bush (Eremophila maculata).

The time to do this varies depending on the plant and the region you live in, but generally, you want to prune them back once flowering has finished.

I’ve decided to show you how I have pruned my cool-season shrubs and I find that using hedge trimmers make quick work of this job. Yes, I realize that I preach against using hedge trimmers for ‘poodling’ flowering shrubs into formal shapes, BUT they are very useful for corrective pruning for the health and beauty of your shrubs. I only use them ONCE a year.

Above, is a photo of my red globe mallow shrubs before I pruned them. They put on a beautiful show for several weeks, but have gone to seed, and they aren’t particularly attractive in this state.

Newly pruned globe mallow shrubs

This is what they look like after pruning. As you can see, they have been pruned back severely, which is needed to keep them attractive and stimulate attractive, new growth. Don’t worry, while they may look rather ugly, in a few weeks; they will be fully leafed out.

Valentine bush before pruning

Here is one of my Valentine (Eremophila maculata ‘Valentine’) shrubs. This is one of my favorite plants, and it adds priceless winter color to my garden. One of the things that I love about it is that it needs pruning once a year when the flowers have begun to fade.

Valentine bush after pruning

I prune mine back to approximately 2 feet tall and wide, but you could prune it back even further. This pruning is necessary to ensure a good amount of blooms for next year. Don’t prune it after this as you will decrease a number of flowers that will form later.

Finally, it was time to tackle pruning my feathery cassia shrubs (Senna artemisoides). I love the golden yellow flowers that appear in winter and last into early spring. They add a lovely fragrance to the garden as well. However, once flowering has finished, they produce seed pods that will turn brown and ugly if not pruned.

I’ve created a video to show you how to prune these shrubs. Unlike the others, I only prune them back by 1/2 their size.

*As you can see in the video, my grandson, Eric was having fun helping out in the garden.

That is all the pruning that these shrubs will receive, which will keep them both attractive and healthy.

It’s worth noting that hedge trimmers aren’t a bad tool to use – rather, the problem is when they are used incorrectly to prune flowering shrubs excessively throughout the year.

I hope that this post is helpful to you as you maintain your shrubs. If you’d like to learn more about pruning shrubs in the desert garden, I invite you to learn more about my popular online pruning workshop. I’ve helped countless people just like you learn how to maintain beautiful, flowering shrubs with pruning twice a year or less!

*What do you prune in mid-spring?

Ready to Prune? Here Are Common Pruning Terms Defined

Purple Blooms for the Fall Garden

Arizona garden, California desert garden, desert gardening, Drought Tolerant, Fall Blooming Plants, Las Vegas gardening, Shrubs, Southwest garden

Fall in the garden is a time of celebration with plants enjoying the period after the heat of summer has bid goodbye and before the cold of winter arrives.

This time of year is filled colorful blooming plants decorating our outdoor spaces. In the past few weeks, the color purple has made its presence known in several gardens that I have visited recently.

If you love the color purple, here are some plants that you may want to include in your garden.

Black dalea(Dalea frutescens) saves its flowering for fall when violet flowers appear above its lacy foliage.

This Southwestern native is hardy to 15 degrees F. and does best in full sun. Black dalea is underused in the landscape and deserves to be used more.

Desert ruellia(Ruellia peninsularis) is a shrub that I use it often for my client’s designs. I love that it flowers throughout the year as well as its attractive foliage.

A native of Mexico, this shrub does best in full sun to partial shade and is hardy to zone 9 gardens.

Sometimes, parking lot medians can put on a spectacular show. This blue ranger(Leucophyllum zygophyllum) begins blooming in summer but saves its best flowering for fall.

The gray foliage adds nice color contrast in the garden. Hardy to 10 degrees, plant in full or reflected sun for maximum flowering.

One of the most beautiful purple blossoms belongs to the skyflower(Duranta erecta) shrub. Delicate purple flowers are arrayed on graceful arching stems.

Hardy to 20 degrees, skyflower blooms spring through fall.

Last week, while I was doing a landscape consultation, my attention was drawn to a beautiful blue potato bush (Lycianthies rantonnetti) blooming in the front yard.

The vibrant purple flowers contrasted beautifully with the bright green foliage. This shrub is hardy to zone 9 gardens.

Finally, let’s look at the generous blooms of purple trailing lantana(Lantana montevidensis). This lantana groundcover blooms spring through fall and needs very little care other than pruning once or twice a year.

Hardy to 20 degrees, this lantana grows in full sun or partial shade.

I hope that you have enjoyed this tour of purple autumn blooms.

What is flowering this fall in your garden?

Blooms in February

Spring Cleaning – Severe Renewal Pruning

Arizona garden, AZ Plant Lady, AZ Plant Lady Classes, California desert garden, desert gardening, Landscape Problems, Las Vegas gardening, Nevada garden, Pruning, Shrubs

My inbox has been filled lately with pruning questions. Specifically, how to prune back overgrown flowering shrubs.

Chihuahuan Sage (Leucophyllum laevigatum)

You may be wondering why you need to severely prune back overgrown shrubs?

Well, as you can see from the photo, above – as a shrub’s branches age, they produce fewer leaves and flowers. As time passes – these branches die, which leave ugly, bare areas.

Here are a few more examples of overgrown shrubs that need to be severely pruned back…

‘White Cloud’ Texas Sage (Leucophyllum frutescens ‘White Cloud’)

You may think the formally pruned sage shrubs in the photo above, look okay besides being a bit on the large side.

But, what you don’t see is a large amount of dead branches inside. In reality, these shrubs are covered in a very thin layer of growth.

Here is an example of old Cassia (Senna nemophila) shrubs that have only been pruned formally. You can see that there are more dead areas than live growth.

So, how do you go about severely pruning old, overgrown shrubs back?

First of all – don’t do this during cooler months because it will take your shrubs a very long time to grow back. In addition, it can make frost-tender shrubs more susceptible to frost damage. Wait until spring for pruning back summer-flowering shrubs such as bougainvillea, sage, oleanders, etc.

You need a good pair of loppers and sometimes a pruning saw and you are ready to go. Simply prune your shrub back until there is only about 1 – 2 ft left.

Hedge trimmers can help if you use them to remove the outer part of the shrub and then you can get your loppers inside to prune off larger branches toward the base.

Below, are photos of ‘Rio Bravo’ Sage (Leucophyllum langmaniae ‘Rio Bravo’) shrubs that started out overgrown, were pruned back severely, and grew back.

Overgrown shrubs.

Pruned back to 1 ft.

This is the ugly stage. But you need to go through this ‘awkward’ stage to achieve beautiful, healthy shrubs.

I promise that it doesn’t last long…

New growth appears 3 weeks later

8 weeks after pruning.

12 weeks after severe pruning.

You can see that the severe pruning caused the shrub to grow young, new branches that produce beautiful green growth and flowers.

**Although severe renewal pruning keeps your shrubs healthy and attractive – there are a few cases when an old, overgrown shrub won’t grow back. It is doubtful that the Cassia shrubs, above, will survive for long either with or without severe pruning).

This usually indicates that the shrub has declined too much and would not have survived for long even without pruning. If this happens, you are better off replacing your shrub.**

Hand pruners, pruning saw and loppers

A good guideline for severely pruning your shrubs is to do this every 3 years or so. Of course, you can do this every year if you like to help keep your shrubs from outgrowing their space.

I hope that this helps to answer some of your questions.

If you would like to learn more about how to prune shrubs the right way, I invite you to learn more about my popular online shrub pruning workshop.

Too Many Lemons? Freeze the Juice…

Arizona garden, California desert garden, Citrus, desert gardening, Fruit Trees

Every winter, we are the lucky recipients of a bounty of citrus from both family and neighbors.

My fruit bowls and pantry are full of blood oranges, grapefruit, and lemons.

Citrus generally ripens during the winter and the cold snap that we had last week had many people picking the citrus fruit from their trees so that the fruit wouldn’t be damaged by the frost.

The problem arises that either I have too many lemons in winter and none in the summer unless I want to spend a ridiculous amount of money on lemons.

So, what do you do?

Well, I juiced them a week ago and made “lemon ice-cubes.”

Then, I promptly forgot about them until I was searching in the freezer for the chicken to thaw out for dinner.

So, I took them out and put my lemon ice cubes into freezer bags.

have three freezer bags full of lemon ice cubes, which will last me through the coming year.

What do I use them for? Well, many of my favorite dinner recipes call for a tablespoon or two of lemon juice, and they are great for making ice tea.

You can also save the lemon zest, (just before you juice them), and freeze the zest too.

My kids love grapefruit (I don’t) and have been eating some for both breakfasts and a snack. They have also been taking the blood oranges to school in their lunch boxes.

My friend, Becky, from Tucson, made ‘Orange Peel Vinegar’ which she uses as a cleaner with her extra oranges.

What do you do with an overabundance of citrus?

Frost Protection: To Cover Plants or Not?

Arizona garden, California desert garden, desert gardening, Las Vegas gardening, Southwest garden

The cold weather has arrived in my neck of the woods with even colder temperatures on their way later this week.

When temperatures dip below 32 degrees, you will find me wearing warm socks, slippers, a sweater, and cardigan when I’m indoors. But, besides me – frost-tender plants are also affected by the cold temperatures.

Have you ever wondered why your plant’s leaves turn brown and crispy after a freeze? Well, ice crystals form on the top of the leaves, which ‘sucks’ out the moisture from the leaf, leaving it brown and crispy.

Many plants handle cold weather just fine and have no problems with frost. However, if you have frost-tender plants, such as bougainvillea, lantana, or yellow bells, you face a choice; Do you leave them unprotected from freezing temperatures and live with the unattractive frost-damaged growth? Or do you protect them when temperatures dip below freezing?

Either choice is fine and is a matter of personal preference. Frost-damaged growth can be pruned back once the last frost of the season has passed (early March where I live). But, if you don’t want to live with brown, crispy plants for a few months, then protecting your plants when temps dip below freezing is necessary.

In the daytime, the sun shines on soil, warming it. At night, the soil releases the warmth from the ground. When you cover your plants – the heat is captured keeping your plants warmer.

Plants aren’t fussy about what type of covering you use (with one exception); old sheets and towels are usually on hand and are easy to use. Burlap and newspaper are also useful as coverings. Cover your frost-tender plants in the evening, making sure that there aren’t any gaps where the heat can escape. You can use large rocks or clothespins to secure them in place. In the day, remove the covers once temperatures have risen above freezing, and allow the sun to warm the soil again.

Don’t keep the coverings on your plants for more than two days in a row without removing them in the day since this can cause water to become trapped underneath, leading to fungal diseases and can cause plants to produce new growth that can be easily damaged by cold.

The best type of frost protection is frost cloth, which is a breathable fabric because it can ‘breathe,’ you can leave the frost cloth on your plants for a longer period. But, use it only when there is a threat of frost. After three days, uncover your plants during the day to allow the sun to reach your plants.

My neighbor made things worse by using plastic as a covering for his citrus trees.

One type of covering that you shouldn’t use is plastic, which transfers the cold to your plants and damages leaves when it touches the plant itself.

In my garden, I only protect my frost-tender trailing lantana which is in a high-profile area next to my entry. The rest of my frost-tender plants, I leave alone until it is time to prune back their frost-damaged growth in spring.

So whether you cover your plants or not, the choice is yours 🙂

For more information on frost protection, check out the following link from the University of Arizona: Frost Protection

How to Protect Plants From Frost

Toilet Paper Rolls and Vegetable Seeds…

Arizona garden, California desert garden, DIY, Gardening With Kids, Vegetable Gardening

Lately, I have been collecting toilet paper rolls. Now I know that may sound a bit weird to some of you, but I needed them for my garden.

So how on earth can toilet paper rolls help you in the garden?

Well, they are an inexpensive, environmentally friendly tool in which to start seeds indoors.

From upper right – bush beans, marigolds, Kentucky beans, cucumbers, sugar snap peas and spinach.

I thought this would be a good project to do with the kids, so we gathered our seeds.

We cut each toilet paper roll in half (you can use paper towel rolls and cut them into thirds for this too.)

We used a planting mix that had slow-release fertilizer already included and also had water-holding granules. I advise wetting the soil before adding it to your toilet paper rolls.

Now that we had everything, we were ready to start. The kids used tablespoons to ‘spoon’ the planting mix into each tube.

Then we lightly pressed down the planting mix and added more.

Now it was time to plant.

Then we used a spray bottle filled with water to thoroughly water each planted seed.

Now we had to create a ‘mini-greenhouse’ effect by covering our toilet paper roll with clear plastic wrap with some holes in the top. Then we placed them on top of the refrigerator, where it was warm enough to help them germinate.

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Every day, we checked the moisture of each toilet paper roll and added more water if necessary.

Once the seedlings germinated, we removed the plastic wrap permanently and placed our seedlings by our bright, sunny kitchen window.

We are keeping the soil moist, but not soggy.

Soon, we will be able to plant our seedlings (with their toilet paper rolls) in the vegetable garden. The cardboard from the toilet paper rolls will disintegrate into the soil.

Of course, you can always use the ready-made plastic seeding trays, but I must admit that I like this method better 🙂

**Are you new to vegetable gardening in the desert? We are fortunate that we can grow a large variety of vegetables, as well as fruit. I invite you to click the ‘Shop’ tab where you’ll find some great information on growing vegetables.

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Four Days of Garden Gifts: Day 3 – Books for Southwest Gardening

Discover the Perfect Garden Gifts: Day 3 – Books for Southwest Gardeners

Unveiling the Arid Beauty of Southwest Gardening

1. Southwest Fruit & Vegetable Gardening

2. Gardening In The Deserts of Arizona

3. Lawn Gone

4. Potted

5. Growing Vegetables in Drought, Desert, and Dry Times

6. Homegrown Herb Garden

More ideas needed? Here you go –

Sprays of Pink

The Beauty of Queen Wreath Vine: A Love Affair with Pink

Queen Wreath Vine: A Delicate Climber

Heart-Shaped Buds and Lush Green Leaves

A Seasonal Wonder

How to Grow Queen wreath vine (Antigonon leptopus)

Have You Met Antigonon leptopus?

How to Protect Citrus Trees from a Heatwave

1. Protect Citrus Trees Provide Temporary Shade

Burlap is a Great Shade Cover for Trees

Shade Cloth Protects Citrus Trees

2. Increase Irrigation and Water Early to Protect Citrus Trees

The Morning Watering Advantage for Citrus

Restoration after the Extreme Heat and Sun

Beyond Heatwaves: Year-Round Trunk and Bark Care to Protect Citrus Trees

Give Water Features New Life With Succulents

Spring Cleaning in the Garden: How to Prune Shrubs

Purple Blooms for the Fall Garden

Spring Cleaning – Severe Renewal Pruning

Too Many Lemons? Freeze the Juice…

Frost Protection: To Cover Plants or Not?

Toilet Paper Rolls and Vegetable Seeds…

Popular Classes and Membership Club

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