Okay, you were probably thinking that I meant the ‘other’ type of grass. But the type of grass I am referring to cannot be smoked, (at least I don’t think it can). ‘Regal Mist’ (Muhlenbergia capillaris ‘Regal Mist’), is a beautiful ornamental grass to include in your landscape. It is low-maintenance, thrives almost anywhere and has stunning burgundy foliage in late summer and early fall.
USES: This Texas native looks best when planted in groups of at least 3, but I think groups of 5 or 7 are better. This ornamental grass grows to approximately 3 ft. High and wide. However, when flowering, add 1 – 2 ft. to their total height. They can be planted in full sun, areas with reflected heat and even in areas with partial shade.
This ornamental grass is tolerant of most soils. Regal Mist is a great choice for planting around pools, boulders and in front of walls. I have planted them around golf courses, and many people would ask me, “What is that plant? It is beautiful.” It is evergreen in areas with mild winters, but it is hardy to -10 degrees F (Zone 6). Frost will turn them light tan in color.
Regal Mist when not in flower
MAINTENANCE: You can hardly get more low-maintenance then this – prune back severely in the winter, almost to the ground, to remove old foliage and spent flowers. I do not fertilize Regal Mist, and they look just great. Although drought tolerant once established, supplemental water is necessary for them is needed for them to look their best and to flower. Self-seeding is not usually a problem when they are irrigated with drip-irrigation.
So, for those of you who are frequently asking me for a beautiful, low-maintenance plant – this is it. Include a few in your garden, and I promise you will have people asking you, “What is that beautiful grass?”
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As most would expect, water is considered a precious resource in the desert. But, did you know that there are more plant problems caused due to over-watering then under-watering?
Believe it or not, it is true. Most people are surprised to hear that up to 70% of residential water usage goes to watering trees and plants in your landscape. This high percentage is because many homeowners over-water their trees and plants.
Beavertail Prickly Pear (Opuntia basilaris) and Globe Mallow (Sphaeralcea ambigua
During college, I was fortunate to intern at the City of Mesa Water Conservation Office. The lessons that I learned there would last a lifetime. Nowadays, when I visit clients to help them with their landscapes, over 90% of the time I find that their irrigation schedule is incorrect – they water too lightly and too often.
This results in shallow roots and salt build-up in and around the root zone. (If you have seen a white substance around your plants, there is a good chance that it is the salts from the soil. And just an FYI – just like high amounts of salt are not good for us; they are not good for plants either).
Overwatering will weaken your plants, especially during the summer since their roots are close to the surface where they become hot and dry out much more quickly.
It’s important to note that plants need to be watered deeply, which does two things. First, it causes the roots to grow deeper into the soil, where it is cooler and stays moister longer. Secondly, it helps to reduce the salts in the soil and keeps them away from the root zone.
Your plants do not need the same amount of irrigation all year. Plants follow the weather- the hotter it is, the more water they need and when temperatures dip, the less that they need. For example, I water my garden once every 20 days in the winter, (excluding grass and annuals), and it is healthy and looks great. If you only take one thing from this article, then please let it be this; CHANGE THE WATERING SCHEDULE ON YOUR IRRIGATION CONTROLLER SEASONALLY.
Now, you are probably asking “How do I know what schedule my plants and lawn should be on?” Well, the folks at Water Use It Wisely is coming to your rescue. They have excellent information for the homeowner on the proper irrigation schedule for your plants. You can view it here: Landscape Watering Guide.
This guide was made for people who reside in the Phoenix metropolitan area. However, people who live in dry climates everywhere will find useful information regarding irrigation, and you can also contact your local extension office for locally published materials. **Most cities have information for their residents regarding watering schedules for their local climate. You can also contact your local cooperative extension office who often have this information as well.
If you find that you have been over-watering your plants, make sure that when you switch to the correct irrigation schedule, that you gradually change the schedule so that your plants have a chance to adjust.
Make sure you have the correct irrigation schedule which lets you have healthier plants, a lower water bill, and helps conserve water.
**For those of you not familiar with drip irrigation. The primary way the southwest waters their plants. Water is brought to the plant by a series of plastic pipes, tubing & emitters. The emitters drip water slowly to the root zone of the plant, reducing runoff and allowing the water to permeate deeply into the soil, which saves water.
https://www.azplantlady.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/Beavertail-PP-and-Globe-Mallow.jpg640426arizonaplantlady@gmail.comhttp://www.azplantlady.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/favicon.pngarizonaplantlady@gmail.com2009-10-28 16:49:002021-03-22 06:28:20Can You Over Water Your Plants in the Desert ?
Do you ever wonder what plants look good together? Below are pictures of some of my favorite plant combinations along with some general guidelines that I follow when designing a garden. Keep in mind that planting similar plants together which require similar water needs makes it easier to maintain a landscape.
Color Harmony in Plant Combinations
Sometimes red and pink colors always complement each other. Introducing yellow flowering plants provide a high color contrast that brings out the red and pink colors. Above is a golf course landscape that I planted with Valentine shrub (Eremophila ‘Valentine’), Parry’s penstemon (Penstemon parryi) and desert marigold (Baileya multiradiata) against the backdrop of foothill palo verde trees.
Parry’s agave (Agave parryi) with purple trailing lantana (Lantana montevidensis)
Succulent and Perennial Pairings
Also, succulents paired with perennials almost always complement each other with their contrasting shades of green and textures. Other recommended succulent and perennial pairings include desert spoon (Dasylirion wheeleri) alongside black dalea (Dalea frutescens), prickly pear species with penstemon or try octopus agave(Agave vilmoriniana) with purple or white trailing lantana.
Autumn Sage (Salvia greggii ‘Red’)
Emphasizing Colors with a White Flower Contrast
Blackfoot Daisy (Melampodium leucanthum)
I use plants with white flowers as a backdrop for plants with red, pink and purple flowers; I like the way the white flowers emphasize the other colors.
Using the Color Wheel for Plant Combinations
‘Rio Bravo’ Sage (Leucophyllum langmaniae) & Red Bird-of-Paradise (Caesalpinia pulcherrima)
Most of the time the pairing of purple flowering plants with those that have orange flowers always looks great. When deciding what colors look good when paired together, it helps to look at a color wheel. In general, the colors that are opposite each other look great when paired together because their colors contrast so well. Other orange, purple plant combinations to try are cape honeysuckle (Tecomaria capensis) with (Leucophyllum species), or Mexican honeysuckle (Justicia spicigera) with purple lantana.
The Power of Yellow Flowering Plants
Angelita daisy (Tetraneuris acaulis) and parry’s penstemon (Penstemon parryi)
Also, I believe that any garden looks better with some yellow flowering plants. As I mentioned earlier, the color yellow makes the other plants look better, (think of the color wheel). I have had clients that have said they do not like yellow until I show them how much better their other plants look when we introduce just a few yellow flowering plants to their landscape and they quickly change their mind.
Yellow Bells (Tecoma stans stans)
Large Shrub Plant Combinations
Bougainvillea ‘Barbara Karst’
I often recommend the following for those who are looking for large shrub combinations. Okay, I realize that many people either love or hate bougainvillea. Personally, I love them. I have two bougainvillea and since I don’t have a swimming pool, so I am not bothered by their litter. Their beautiful and vibrant colors are amazing.
Timing Matters in Plant Pairings
I pair my bougainvillea with yellow bell shrubs. Their colors contrast nicely, and they screen out the back wall of my garden. I give them plenty of room to grow, and they produce beautiful flowers spring through fall. If you do have a swimming pool and don’t like bougainvillea, how about trying orange jubilee (Tecoma hybrid ‘Orange Jubilee’) and Texas Sage (Leucophyllum frutescens) together?
Weber’s agave (Agave weberi) and purple trailing lantana
I have just one more tip – if you want to pair flowering plants together to enjoy the contrasting colors, make sure that they bloom at the same time of year. It is so easy to visit the plant nursery and see the pretty photos of flowers on the different plants and pick what ones you think will look great together only to discover later that one flower in the fall while the other blooms in spring and so you never see their flowers at the same time.
So, visit your local nursery and try some of the suggested plant combinations or see what beautiful plant pairings you come up with for your garden.
Well, asking a horticulturist to tell you what her favorite plant is, is rather like asking a mother to tell you who her favorite child is – it’s impossible.
But when pressed, I breakdown and admit to liking one particular plant slightly more than all the others.
Firecracker Penstemon(Penstemon eatonii) is my favorite plant. There is so much to love about this beautiful perennial; it is hard to know where to start…. reddish-orange flowers, it attracts hummingbirds, blooms winter through spring, is low-maintenance, drought tolerant and native to the desert.
Need I say more? Well then, I will……
This particular penstemon species can be found growing in the Southwestern United States. Heat and cold don’t bother it. It can grow in 100+ temperatures and is hardy to -20 degrees F.
Beautiful orange/red flowers bloom in the winter and spring. Grown easily from seed, Firecracker Penstemon reaches a mature size of approximately 2′ x 2′ when in flower.
Firecracker penstemon is a welcome asset to the desert flower garden. Plant in full sun and keep away from the shade as they will grow leggy from lack of sunlight. I particularly like the way they look when planted singly next to boulders. They also look spectacular in bloom when planted in groups of three.
Place alongside other plants that are either yellow or white which will contrast nicely with the orange/red color of this Penstemon’s blooms. Recommended companion plants include damianita, blackfoot daisy, prickly pear cactus, brittlebush, agave, angelita daisy, and desert marigold.
For maximum hummingbird viewing, be sure to plant firecracker penstemon where you will be able to see the hummingbirds feeding.
MAINTENANCE: This perennial is low-maintenance. The primary requirement is the removal of spent flower stalks, which will often promote additional flowering. Firecracker penstemon is drought tolerant when established, but will require regular irrigation to look their best. At the minimum, supplemental water will be needed in the summer months. Older plants can be-be cut back to remove old, woody growth. NO fertilizer is required.
Now you know why firecracker penstemon is my favorite plant! I encourage you to try this beautiful plant in your zone 5 – 10 garden. I am sure you will love it as much as I do.
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The time has finally arrived! Summer temperatures are but a memory and fall is here!
Every year we wait for the end of summer so we can start adding plants in the garden. The only question is what plants will I add?
The possibilities are endless…
Purple Lilac Vine (Hardenbergia violaceae)
The signs that fall in the desert may not be as evident as in other parts of the county, yet they are here. Elongating shadows, cooler evening temperatures along with increased plant growth and flowering are clear signs that the heat of summer is fading and cooler temperatures are on their way.
Blackfoot Daisy (Melampodium leucanthum)
October and November are the best months in which to plant most types of plants in the desert. The reason for this is that plants use the cooler weather in which to grow a healthy root system so that by the time that the summer arrives, they are ready to handle the stress of the intense heat.
Parry’s Penstemon (Penstemon parryi)
Most trees, shrubs, perennials, and succulents can be planted now. Stay away from planting palms, bougainvillea, lantana and other plants that suffer frost damage during the winter months. They do best when planted in the spring.
Chaparral Sage (Salvia clevelandii)
As in all climates, be sure to plant correctly. Dig a hole three times as wide as the root ball but no more profound than the root ball. This will allow the roots to grow outwards more quickly.
When growing native plants, you do not need to add any amendments to the hole as this can cause the roots to just stay in place, enjoying the nutrient-rich soil, instead of venturing out into the regular soil. If you do decide to add amendments to the soil, be sure to incorporate them well with the existing soil.
Newly installed plants will initially require more water than established plants, so be sure to adjust your watering schedule accordingly.
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Globe mallow (Sphaeralcea ambigua) brings a unique “cottage-garden” feel to the desert plant palette along with some surprises. In spring a flush of beautiful flowers are produced that will cause people to stop in their tracks. After that, globe mallow will bloom off and on throughout the summer and fall.
This shrubby, perennial is native to the Southwestern areas of North America where it is found growing along washes and rocky slopes. They grow quickly and reach approximately 3 ft. X 3 ft. in size. Globe mallow is cold hardy to about 20 degrees F.
Drought tolerant
Although most globe mallow plants produce orange flowers, they are available in other colors including pink, purple, white, red and shades in between. At the nursery, you will usually see the orange flowered variety available. However, some growers are beginning to stock selections of globe mallow in different colors. But buyer beware; unless specially marked or blooming, you don’t know exactly what color flower you will end up with make sure if you want a certain color to check for mark.
Often, the surprise occurs after you plant them and wait to see what color the flowers will be. I bought four globe mallow, out of bloom, for my garden and ended up with one red, two pink and one white. For those who do not like surprises in the garden, you can wait and buy them in bloom in the spring.
USES: Globe mallow attracts hummingbirds as well as butterflies. They serve as a colorful backdrop for small perennials or small cacti. Consider planting with any of the following plants for a colorful desert flower garden – penstemon, desert marigold, ruellia, and blackfoot daisy. This beautiful but tough plant does best in full sun and performs well in areas with hot, reflected heat. Do not plant in shady areas as this will cause them to grow leggy.
Globe mallow do self-seed, and the seedlings can be moved and transplanted in the fall if desired. They are used frequently for re-vegetation purposes because they grow readily from seed.
MAINTENANCE: This pretty perennial is very low-maintenance. No fertilizer or amendments to the soil are required. Prune once a year to approximately 6 inches to 1 ft. after it has finished blooming in late spring/early summer, which will help to prevent them from self-seeding, maximize future blooming and minimize unproductive, woody growth. Globe mallow is not the type of plant to repeatedly shear into a formal shape. When pruning, wear gloves and long sleeves since the tiny hairs on the leaves can be irritating to some as well as an eye irritant.
Once established, globe mallow is quite drought-tolerant, but will require supplemental irrigation for the best appearance and flowering. My globe mallow plants are connected to my drip-irrigation system and do very well when watered three to four times a month, spring through fall.
ADDITIONAL FACTS: Historically, globe mallow were used by Native Americans for medicinal purposes such as treating diarrhea, sore throats, eye diseases as well as skin disorders. Their roots were used for upset stomachs and poultices were made for treating swollen joints and broken bones.
Do you like prickly cactus? I have a few favorites, one being the Santa-Rita Prickly Pear (Opuntia violaceae var. santa rita). The color contrast of their blue-grey pads and the shades of purple are so striking in the landscape.
The Santa-Rita Prickly Pear: A Stunning Accent Plant
The Santa-Rita prickly pear is a captivating addition to any landscape. Its blue-grey pads and vibrant shades of purple create a visually striking contrast. Not only is this cactus aesthetically pleasing, but both its pads and fruit are edible (though you may want to remove the spines first). Cold temperatures and drought conditions intensify the vivid purple color of this remarkable cactus.
Native Plant Beauty of the Southwest
Native to the Southwestern regions of North America, the Santa-Rita prickly pear can reach impressive dimensions, growing as large as 6 feet by 6 feet. However, if you prefer a smaller size, careful pruning at the junction where the pads connect can maintain a more manageable shape.
Blossoms and Wildlife with Prickly Cactus
In spring, the Santa-Rita prickly pear graces the landscape with lovely yellow flowers that later give way to red fruit during the summer months. Keep in mind that javelina, rabbits, and pack rats are occasional visitors that might nibble on the pads, while pack rats ingeniously use the pads to build their homes.
Handle with Care: Dealing with Spines and Glochids
Prickly pear pads are covered with clusters of 2″ spines and tiny spines known as glochids. Glochids are especially irritating to the skin and easily detach from the pad, making them challenging to remove. When handling these prickly cacti, use multiple layers of newspaper or a piece of carpet to protect your hands. Avoid gloves, as glochids can render them useless.
Removing Glochids Caused by Prickly Cactus
If you encounter glochids with prickly cactus, there are different methods to remove them, including applying Elmer’s glue, allowing it to dry, and then peeling off the glochids. However, many find greater success using duct tape for a more efficient removal process.
Versatile Uses in Landscaping
Beyond being a landscape accent, the Santa-Rita prickly pear serves as an excellent screen. Surprisingly, it can thrive in containers as well, although it’s essential to keep them away from high-traffic areas. These resilient cacti flourish in full sun or light shade and well-drained soil.
Low-Maintenance Prickly Cactus Beauty
Santa-Rita prickly pears are incredibly low-maintenance plants. When pruning, use tongs or newspaper to handle the trimmed pads. While they are highly drought-tolerant, occasional watering during the hot summer months, especially in the absence of rain, can enhance their appearance. Shriveled pads signal acute drought stress, so a little extra water can work wonders.
Addressing the Cottony Mystery on Prickly Cactus
Some might mistake white, cotton-like areas on the pads as a fungal infection, but it’s actually caused by a small insect known as cochineal scale. Removing this cottony mass is simple—just spray it off with a strong jet of water from the hose.
Propagation: A Simple Guide
You can propagate Santa-Rita prickly pear cacti with ease. Simply cut off a pad that is at least 6 inches tall, let it callus upright in a shady, dry spot for about two weeks, and then plant it with the cut end down.
Plant with the cut end down, do not water for the first month because the bottom is susceptible to fungal infections. After the first month, water every 2 – 3 weeks until established.
Timing Matters
Planting in the summer requires shade until the cactus is established (approximately three months). However, it’s often advisable to wait until spring when the soil warms up for planting, especially in regions with cold winters.
Renewed Growth: Pruning and Propagation
For those with established Santa-Rita prickly pear cacti, you can rejuvenate growth by pruning or starting anew. Simply remove the cactus, cut off some pads, and replant them in the same location. Many have embraced this method and have been delighted with the results.
An Interesting Historical Fact
The Aztecs would cultivate prickly pear cactus infected with cochineal scale because the insects secrete a dark red dye with crushed. This was used to dye cloth. The Spanish exported this dye from Mexico back to Europe where it was used to dye royal garments and British military uniforms. The dye was highly valued by the Spanish, next to gold and silver. It takes 70,000 insects to produce 1 pound of dye.
*This is but one of many beautiful prickly pear species available to the home gardener. Do you have a favorite species of prickly pear cactus?
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There are some signs that summer is beginning to fade and that fall is around the corner. The stress that the high temperatures of summer bring has caused many plants to slow down their growth.
However, the slightly lower temperatures in September bring on a flush of new growth for many trees, shrubs, and succulents in the garden. I enjoy being out in my garden this time of year and seeing many of my plants rejuvenated.
With the somewhat cooler temperatures, I am now seeing many gardeners venturing outside and taking stock of the condition of their landscape. Fall is a busy time in the desert garden because it is the ideal time to install many types of plants, which will be discussed in a separate post in early October.
SHRUBS: I just finished lightly pruning my ‘Rio Bravo’ sage (Leucophyllum langmaniae). Summer flowering shrubs that are cold-hardy look their best when lightly pruned at this time to help reign in rangy, sprawling growth. This should be only done with hand pruners only. Do not use a hedge trimmer and shear your shrubs. They should have a pleasing natural shape when you are finished. Do not prune back frost-sensitive plants at this time.
ANNUALS: Although the local nurseries are abundant with winter annuals, I don’t recommend planting them now. The temperatures are still quite hot, and there is a good chance that they will not make it.
In the past when mid-September came, I would load up the truck with 100+ flats of annuals to plant around the community where I worked as the horticulturist. I would then spent the next four weeks making repeated trips to the nursery to replace dead plants that just could not handle the heat of early fall. From then on I would wait until October to change out summer annuals and replace with winter annuals. As a result, we suffered very little plant loss.
TREES: Mesquite and Palo Verde trees that are overgrown can be lightly easily pruned back. Resist the temptation to heavily prune at this time. January and February is the time for heavy pruning to occur for these trees.
SUCCULENTS: Cacti, agaves and other succulent plants do best when planted when soil temperatures are warm, which makes September a great time to install them before cooler temperatures arrive. Prickly Pear cactus can be pruned back this month if needed. Problems with agave may show up this time of year.
If your agave suddenly collapses, there is a good chance that they have gotten an infection with agave snout weevil. There is no cure and the agave should be removed, it will be smelly due to the decay the weevil causes – and not just a little stinky.
One of my (least) favorite memories happened years ago when I worked as a horticulturist on a golf course. One year, we had to remove countless agaves throughout the landscapes due to a large infestation – the smell was awful. If this happens to your agave, do not plant another agave in the area – use another type of plant instead.
ROSES: Roses should be lightly pruned and fertilized this month (see earlier post for details).
CITRUS: Make sure to fertilize your citrus trees if you have not already done so (see earlier post for details).
NEXT MONTH – get ready for planting and wildflower garden preparation!
In the Desert Southwest, we are blessed with two different blooming seasons – spring and again in fall.
While two bloom seasons is generally one more than many regions experience, roses don’t enjoy the heat of summer and go into summer dormancy. That means that they just exist and don’t grow or bloom significantly. Their leaves may show signs of sunburn.
Fall Rose, ‘Medallion’
However, once September arrives and the days begin to grow shorter and temperatures begin to cool, it is time to lightly prune your rose bushes, which will stimulate new growth.
Begin by pruning back 1/4 of the top growth, removing sunburned foliage and any flowers present.
As always, prune back to an outward facing bud at an angle of 45 degrees. Seal any pruning cuts larger than the diameter of a pencil with Elmer’s glue to prevent borers.
Fall is also time to fertilize roses in preparation for their fall bloom season. Apply an organic fertilizer formulated for roses. Afterward, be sure to water in well.
‘Abraham Darby’
**For those that want to go the extra step, I would recommend soil amendments such as compost and manure in addition to rose fertilizer, which results in greater growth, lush foliage and blooms over the long term.
To do this, first make 4 – 5, six-inch deep holes around each rose, placing them at least 1 ft. from the center (I use the end of a broom handle for this). Then apply a mixture of aged steer manure and alfalfa pellets (rabbit food) and pour into each hole. Water in well.
The aged manure improves the soil structure and slowly releases nutrients. The alfalfa pellets release a type of alcohol as they break down that roses just love.
By lightly pruning and fertilizing in early fall, you’ll enjoy a fall filled with beautiful roses.
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In the realm of desert flora, the saguaro cactus stands as an iconic symbol of the American Southwest.
The saguaro cactus (Carnegiea gigantea) is a towering, tree-like cactus native to the Sonoran Desert, spanning the regions of Arizona and Mexico. It claims the title of the tallest cactus in the United States, reaching heights of up to 52 feet and boasting a substantial diameter of up to 30 inches. Despite their slow growth, saguaros have an impressive lifespan, enduring for as long as two centuries.
One of the most common questions about these magnificent cacti is, “How long does it take for a saguaro cactus to grow its arms?” There’s a prevailing belief that it requires a staggering 100 years, but let’s delve deeper into the fascinating journey of saguaro arm growth.
However, as with much plant information, this answer is not always correct, it actually takes less time for a saguaro cactus to grow its arm back in a landscape setting than it’s native habitat.
Unveiling the Mysteries of Saguaro Cactus Arm Development
Saguaro cacti (Carnegiea gigantea) are renowned for their impressive stature and distinctive arms, making them a captivating presence in the desert landscape. However, the timeline for the growth of saguaro cactus arms is far more nuanced than the century-long myth suggests.
The Influence of Habitat and Water Availability
The primary factor influencing the rate of arm development in saguaro cacti is the availability of water. In their native desert habitat, where water is a precious resource, saguaros exhibit a slower growth pattern. It’s not uncommon for them to take between 50 to 100 years or even more to sprout their first arms.
Accelerated Growth in Landscape Settings
In stark contrast, saguaro cacti in landscape settings, where irrigation systems provide consistent moisture, tend to grow at a significantly accelerated pace. The abundant water supply encourages more rapid development, and as a result, these cacti often display their distinctive arms much earlier than their counterparts in the wild.
Regional Variations in Growth Rates
Even within the saguaro’s range, growth rates can vary based on regional climate conditions. For instance, saguaros in areas with slightly higher rainfall, such as southern Arizona near Tucson, may experience faster arm growth compared to those in drier regions of the Sonoran Desert.
The Unique Journey of Each Saguaro
It’s important to emphasize that while some saguaro cacti may begin growing arms in as little as 10 to 20 years in well-irrigated landscape settings, others may take longer. Each saguaro’s journey is unique and influenced by various environmental factors and care.
In general, a saguaro growing in its native habitat can take 50 – 100 years to grow arms. In a landscape setting, where saguaro are treated with gentle care, arms often appear much earlier.
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The cookie is set by the GDPR Cookie Consent plugin and is used to store whether or not user has consented to the use of cookies. It does not store any personal data.
Functional cookies help to perform certain functionalities like sharing the content of the website on social media platforms, collect feedbacks, and other third-party features.
Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience for the visitors.
Analytical cookies are used to understand how visitors interact with the website. These cookies help provide information on metrics the number of visitors, bounce rate, traffic source, etc.
Advertisement cookies are used to provide visitors with relevant ads and marketing campaigns. These cookies track visitors across websites and collect information to provide customized ads.
