Dealing with Aphids on Your Plants: To Act or Not to Act
What do you do when you spot aphids on your plants?
Do you reach for the nearest bottle of insecticide? Spray them off with a hose or remove them with your fingers?
Believe it or not, sometimes the best thing is to do nothing.
So, is this something I learned in school? No. I figured it out by observing the plants in my first garden.
Lessons from Oleanders: The Case of the Yellow Aphids
I remembered this early lesson when I passed by a severely pruned oleander shrub in front of my favorite bagel shop.
The oleanders were growing back nicely. However, there were yellow aphids on the young leaves.
Our Instinct to Eradicate: The Impulse to Remove Bugs
Years ago, my oleander shrubs had an infestation of yellow aphids like this, and I was anxious to get rid of them. Really, this is our first reaction when we see bugs on our plants – we want them gone.
I had several methods at my disposal – insecticidal soap, a strong jet of water or my fingers – all of which, would help get rid of most of the bugs. But, life got in the way, and I didn’t have a chance to get out to treat my shrubs until about ten days later.
The Unexpected Result: The Disappearance of Aphids
Can you guess what I found? Not a single aphid. I didn’t have to do a thing, and the aphids were gone, and my shrubs look great.
So, what happened to the little critters?
When harmful insect pests first appear, it can take a week or two before their natural predators follow. In the case of aphids, lacewing and ladybugs showed up and ate the aphids.
A Hands-Off Approach: Trusting Nature’s Course
Plants are tougher than we give them credit for and can handle a certain amount of insect pests without any adverse effects.
So, when I come back in a couple of weeks to the same bagel shop, I expect to see no aphids in sight and a healthy oleander shrub.
The lesson here is that you don’t need to freak out when you see these bugs as the normal cycle of nature will take care of them. However, you can step in to get rid of them if you see adverse effects on plants such as wilting, smaller blooms, or discoloration.
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Discovering the Beauty of ‘Orange Jubilee’ and ‘Sparky’ Tecoma Shrubs
One of my favorite things I do as a landscape consultant is to show my clients newer plant and shrub introductions on the market.
Imagine being the first person on your block with the latest plant that all your neighbors will want to add in their landscape.
Tecoma x ‘Orange Jubilee’
The Allure of Tecoma x ‘Orange Jubilee’
Many of you may be familiar with the large, orange-flowering shrub Tecoma x ‘Orange Jubilee’. This popular shrub has clusters of trumpet-shaped flowers and a long bloom period. Its large size 8-12-foot height makes it a favorite for screening out a block wall or unfavorable view.
While the flowers and lush foliage are a plus, Orange Jubilee is too large for many smaller areas, which is why this newer shrub is one of my new favorites.
Introducing ‘Sparky’ Tecoma: A New Shrub Sensation
‘Sparky’ Tecoma is a hybrid that has bi-colored flowers and is named after Arizona State University’s popular mascot due to the coloring. It was created by a horticulturist and professor at ASU.
‘Sparky’ is about half the size of ‘Orange Jubilee,’ which makes it suitable for smaller spaces. It has smaller leaves and a slightly more compact growth habit, reaching 4-5 feet tall and wide.
Both types of Tecoma have the same requirements – plant in full sun and prune away frost-damaged growth in March. ‘Sparky’ is slightly more cold tender than ‘Orange Jubilee’.
Personal Experience: Adding Tecoma Shrubs to My Garden
I have added three of these lovely shrubs in my front garden. One along my west-facing side wall, and two that flank either side of my large front window. They add beautiful color 9 months a year.
For those of you who are U of A alumni, you can plant one and call it something else. To date, there isn’t any word of a red, white and blue hybrid yet – but, I’ll be sure to let you know if they create one 😉
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Winter Garden Wonders: Did you know that you can have plants blooming in your landscape every month of the year? In the desert garden, this is definitely true!
One of the most popular programs that I teach at the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix is ‘Flowering All Year’. During the presentation, I teach students how to incorporate plants in their gardens so they can enjoy colorful blooms all year long.
A Winter Wonderland of Desert Blooms
Sadly, many desert dwellers miss this opportunity. Drive down a typical neighborhood street in winter, and you will have a hard time finding plants in bloom except for colorful annual flowers. As you’ll note, the focus in our gardens is typically on plants that flower through the warm season.
So, how can we change that? It’s quite simple – add plants that will flower in winter. Believe it or not, there are quite a few plants that fit the bill.
I invite you to come along with me on a virtual tour of the plants I showed to the students in the class as we walked through the winter garden in mid-February.
*Before we embark on our walk, I have a confession to make. Usually, I arrive early before my classes to see what’s in bloom so I can plan our route. But, my daughter’s bus arrived late that morning, so I was running a bit late. As a result, I didn’t know what we would see. Thankfully, there was plenty to see.
Purple Lilac Vine (Hardenbergia violaceae)
Plants for Cool-Season Winter Garden Color
Let’s start by discovering some of the remarkable plants that grace the winter garden with their presence:
1. Purple Lilac Vine (Hardenbergia violaceae)
The vibrant, blooms of purple lilac vine never disappoint. Blooms appear in mid-winter, adding a welcome relief to colorless winter landscapes. Here it is planted in a tall raised bed and allowed to trail downward. In my garden, it grows up against a wall with a trellis for support.
Whale’s Tongue Agave and Mexican Honeysuckle underneath an Ironwood tree
2. Mexican Honeysuckle (Justicia spicigera)
Mexican Honeysuckle (Justicia spicigera)
Several perennials and small shrubs do best in the desert garden when planted in filtered sunlight. Desert trees like ironwood, mesquite, and palo verde are excellent choices for producing filtered sunlight. Mexican honeysuckle doesn’t do well in full sun. As a result, it thrives under the shade of this ironwood tree. I love the texture contrast in this bed next to the whale’s tongue agave in this winter garden.
3. Desert Marigold (Baileya multiradiata) and Weber’s Agave (Agave weberi)
Weber’s Agave (Agave weberi) and Desert Marigold (Baileya multiradiata)
Desert marigold is a short-lived perennial that resembles a wildflower. Yellow flowers appear throughout the year on this short-lived perennial. I like to use them in wildflower gardens or natural desert landscapes because this yellow bloomer will self-seed.
4. Firesticks (Euphorbia ‘Sticks on Fire’) and Elephants Food (Portulacaria afra)
Firesticks (Euphorbia ‘Sticks on Fire’) and Elephants Food (Portulacaria afra)
Shrubs, vines, and perennials aren’t the only plants that add winter color in the landscape. Colorful stems of the succulent ‘Firesticks’ add a splash of orange all year. I am a fan of the use of blue pots in the garden, and here, it adds a powerful color contrast with the orange.
5. ‘Winter Blaze’ (Eremophila glabra)
‘Winter Blaze’ (Eremophila glabra)
Lush green foliage decorated with orange/red blooms is on display all year long with this Australian native. Several types of Eremophilas add cool-season color to the landscape, and this one deserves more attention. There must be a blank space in my garden for one…
Blue Bells Eremophila and Mexican Fence Post Cactus
‘Blue Bells’ (Eremophila hygrophana)
Without a doubt, ‘Blue Bells’ is arguably one of my most favorite plants. It resembles a compact Texas sage (Leucophyllum spp.) but doesn’t grow as large AND blooms throughout the year. For best results, plant in full sun, but well-drained soil is a must.
7. Valentine Bush (Eremophila maculata ‘Valentine’)
Valentine Bush (Eremophila maculata ‘Valentine’)
My favorite choice for winter color is Valentine bush. Red/fuschia blooms begin to appear in January and last into April. For maximum color impact, use them in groups of 3 – 5. They are low maintenance – prune back to 1/2 their size in mid-April after flowering. No other pruning is required.
8. Aloe ferox
Aloe ferox
Winter into spring is a busy time for aloes, and many species do well in the desert garden. Most require filtered sunlight to do their best, but ‘Blue Elf’ aloe does well in both full sun and bright shade.
People from colder climates are often surprised to note that rosemary flowers. In the desert, we are fortunate that we get to enjoy their blue flowers from winter through spring – the bees like them too!
Shrubby Germander (Teucrium fruiticans ‘Azurea’)
Toward the entrance to the garden, I was delighted to see shrubby germander. A star in my own garden, this shrub has flowered all winter long and will continue to do so into spring. The blooms are a lovely periwinkle color.
11. Chuparosa (Justicia californica)
Chuparosa (Justicia californica)
As our walk was wrapping up, the bright red blooms of a chuparosa shrub caught our eye. A hummingbird was busily drinking as much nectar as he could. I like to use this shrub in winter garden landscapes with a natural theme as it has a sprawling growth habit. It flowers through winter into spring and an important nectar source for hummingbirds.
Beyond Blooms: Adding Artistic Flair to the Winter Garden
Of course, blooming plants aren’t the only way to add color to the garden. Garden art can play a vital part in adding interest. The Desert Botanical Garden is host to a traveling art exhibit with various animals made from recycled plastic. This group of meerkats greets visitors to the garden.
I hope that you enjoy this virtual tour of winter garden color in the garden and will add some to your own.
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No matter where you live, you will see the same shrubs being used over and over again in countless landscapes. While the shrubs may be attractive, their overuse throughout neighborhoods creates a boring appearance because they are so common.
The Allure and Overuse of Oleanders
In California, Nevada, and Arizona, oleanders have held a prominent spot in the landscape for years. Their popularity is due to their lush evergreen foliage, ability to withstand intense heat, and their pretty flowers.
However, their overuse in many areas makes their beauty less impactful and frankly, almost forgettable.
The Power of Unpredictability
At a recent conference, this point was put quite succinctly by the head of horticulture for Disneyland who said,
“When things are expected (in the landscape), they become less powerful and impactful”.
His statement sums up what happens when we use the same plants over and over.
Oleanders’ Ailment: Oleander Leaf Scorch
In the case of oleanders, there is another problem.
Oleanders are susceptible to a fatal disease called, oleander leaf scorch. This disease has come from California into Arizona where it is popping up in neighborhoods in Phoenix and also Lake Havasu. I have consulted with several cases affecting large, mature oleanders in Arcadia, Biltmore, and Moon Valley areas in Phoenix.
This bacterial disease is spread by leaf-hopper insects and there is currently no known cure or control available. Infected oleanders slowly decline over 2-3 years before dying. To date, dwarf oleanders have not shown signs of the disease, only the larger forms. But, that could change sometime in the future.
Seeking a Shrub Alternative: Introducing Hop Bush
Objectively, there’s a lot to like about oleanders; they thrive in hot, dry climates with minimal fuss, have attractive dark green foliage, and add color to the landscape when in flower. However, their overuse in the landscape makes them less impactful and coupled with their susceptibility to oleander leaf scorch, people want an alternative.
You can learn more about this disease that affects oleanders here.
When asked for another option for the large, tall forms of oleanders, I recommend Hop Bush (Dodonaea viscosa), also known as Hopseed Bush.
Grab my FREE guide for Fuss-Free Plants that thrive in a hot, dry climate!
Hop Bush is a Versatile Landscaping Solution
This native desert shrub has attractive, evergreen foliage and a similar growth habit to oleander. They grow up to 12 feet tall or prune to a shorter height.
Use Hop Bush in the same ways as oleanders to provide a nice green hedge or privacy screen.
Hop bush flower
Hop Bush has Elegance in Foliage
While they don’t have colorful flowers; they have lovely foliage that is only mildly poisonous as opposed to oleanders which are highly toxic. Hop bush has a lovely natural shape or prune as a formal hedge.
Share Your Experience
Have you ever seen hop bush growing in the landscape? Your insights and experiences are invaluable – feel free to share them in the comments below.
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Gardeners have been well aware of the enduring allure of white flowers and white flowering plants and the exquisite beauty they bestow upon the garden. For generations, the pristine purity and timeless elegance of white blossoms have captivated horticultural enthusiasts.
These flowers serve as a symbol of purity and grace, enhancing the visual appeal of any landscape. With their ability to seamlessly complement a wide range of colors and architectural elements, white flowers have earned their place as timeless classics in the world of gardening.
The Beauty of White Flowers
Gardeners have long known about white flowers plants and the beauty that they bring to the garden.
The color white is seen by many as a bright, clean color that makes surrounding colors ‘pop’ visually. Others like how white flowers seem to glow in the evening and early morning hours in the landscape.
Part 2: A List of White Flowering Plants for the Southwestern Landscape
Thankfully, there are several white flowering plants that do very well in the Southwestern landscape. In Part 1, I showed you four of my favorites, which you can view here.
Today, let’s continue on our white, floral journey…
Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase.
White Evening Primrose (Oenothera caespitosa)
White Evening Primrose (Oenothera caespitosa)
The arrival of spring transforms the low-growing green foliage of White Evening Primrose with the appearance of beautiful white flowers. What makes these flowers somewhat unique is that as the flowers fade, they turn pink.
White Evening Primrose looks best when used in a landscape with a ‘natural’ theme or among wildflowers.
The flowers appear in spring and summer on 10″ high foliage. Hardy to zone 8 gardens, this small perennial is native to Southwestern deserts.
White Globe Mallow (Sphaeralcea ambigua ‘White’)
Beautiful White Globe Mallow (Sphaeralcea ambigua ‘White’)
This is a shrubby perennial that is in my own landscape. While the most common color of Globe Mallow is orange, it does come in a variety of other colors including red, pink and white – all of which I have.
The white form of Globe Mallow shares the same characteristics of the orange one – it thrives in full sun and can even handle hot, reflected sun. The foliage is gray and looks best when cut back to 1 ft. high and wide after flowering in spring.
I pair white Globe Mallow alongside my pink ones for a unique, desert cottage garden look.
See what I mean about white flowers helping other colors to stand out visually?
Hardy to zone 6, Globe Mallow grows to 3 ft. tall and wide. It does best in full sun and well-drained soil.
To learn more about this beautiful desert native, click here.
Blackfoot Daisy (Melampodium leucanthum)
The white Blackfoot Daisy (Melampodium leucanthum)
The quaint Blackfoot Daisy is another perennial that looks great in a natural desert-themed landscape. This ground cover produces sunny, white daisies in spring and fall in desert climates – it flowers during the summer in cooler locations.
Hardy to zone 5, Blackfoot Daisy can handle extreme cold when planted in full sun. I like to plant it near boulders where it can grow around the base for a nicely designed touch. It grows to 1 ft. high and 24 inches wide.
I have several in my front garden and I love their beauty and low-maintenance. They need very little maintenance other than light pruning with my Felco Hand Pruners in late spring to remove dead growth.
Little Leaf Cordia (Cordia parvifolia)
Green shrub and white flower Little Leaf Cordia (Cordia parvifolia)
This white flowering shrub is not used often enough in the Southwestern landscape in my opinion. It has beautiful flowers, needs little pruning if given enough room to grow, is extremely drought tolerant and evergreen.
Little leaf cordia can grow 4 – 8 ft. tall and up to 10 ft. wide. Unfortunately, some people don’t allow enough room for it to grow and shear it into a ‘ball’.
You can go 2 – 3 years or more between prunings. It’s best when left alone to bear its attractive, papery white flowers spring into fall.
Hardy to zone 8, little leaf cordia does great in full sun and well-drained soil.
During a visit to a nursery some time ago, I noticed a white flowering variety of the more commonplace purple ‘Katie’ ruellia and I immediately decided that I liked the white color better.
‘White Katie’ ruellia grows to 8 inches tall and 1 1/2 ft. wide in zone 8 gardens and warmer. It looks great when planted in groups of 3 or more. You can plant it alongside the purple variety for fun color contrast. It does suffer frost damage when temps dip below freezing but recover quickly in spring.
This white flowering perennial does best in morning sun or filtered shade in desert gardens.
I hope you have enjoyed these white flowering plants and decide to add them to your garden!
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Are white flowering plants a part of your landscape design? They certainly are in mine.
Surprisingly, white flowers are often overshadowed by more vibrant shades like yellow, orange, or red. However, it’s worth noting that white flowers can play a pivotal role in enhancing your landscape by creating striking color contrasts.
In addition, white flowering plants also have a visually cooling effect in the garden, which is a welcome sight in the Southwest where summers are hot.
I’d like to share with you some of my favorite white flowers, all of which do well in the Southwestern landscape.
Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase.
Bush Morning Glory (Convolvulus cneorum)
Bush Morning Glory (Ipomoea carnea)
Pretty white flowers with yellow centers are just one of the reasons people love Bush Morning Glory. Its silvery foliage is another great color that it adds to the landscape.
In the desert, the flowers appear for several weeks in spring before fading away. However, the silvery foliage is evergreen and will add great color contrast when planted nearby plants with dark green foliage.
Do you have an area that gets full afternoon sun and reflected heat? Bush Morning Glory can easily handle it while looking great.
Hardy to zone 8, bush morning glory grows approximately 2 ft. tall and 4 ft. wide. Prune back in spring, after flowering has finished by 1/2 its size.
White Gaura (Gaura lindheimeri)
White Gaura (Gaura lindheimeri)
A flowering perennial, white gaura, has a prominent place in my landscape. It has small flowers, shaped like small butterflies, that start out pink and turn white as they bloom.
This lovely perennial does best in filtered sun and flowers in spring and fall. It requires little maintenance other then shearing it back in spring to 1/2 its size.
White gaura is related to the pink variety ‘Siskyou Pink’, but has a bushier appearance and grows larger – approximately 2 1/2 ft. wide and tall. This native perennial is hardy to zone 6 gardens.
While most of us are more familiar with the purple flowering Texas sage shrubs, there is a white variety that is well worth adding to your landscape.
‘White Cloud’ Texas Sage can grow large, 6+ feet tall and wide, if given enough space. It thrives in full sun and in summer and fall, periodic flushes of white flowers cover the silvery green foliage.
Avoid the temptation to excessively prune this shrub, which decreases the flowering and is not healthy for this type of shrub. Hardy to zone 7, this shrub looks great when used as an informal hedge or against a wall.
Hedge trimmers aren’t needed for pruning Texas sage. My Corona Compound Loppers are what I’ve used to prune mine for over 10 years with some hand pruning as needed for wayward branches.
For guidelines on how to (or how NOT to) prune flowering shrubs, click here.
Texas Olive (Cordia boissieri)
Texas Olive (Cordia boissieri)
This Texas native is a huge favorite of mine – Texas olive is a large shrub or small tree, depending on how you prune it. It has dark green, leathery leaves, and beautiful white flowers, which appear spring through fall on evergreen foliage.
Whenever I see this shrub, I always take a moment to admire its beauty, since it isn’t used often in the landscape – but it should be!
Small fruit, resembling an olive is produced, which are edible. They thrive in full sun. Allow plenty of room for it to grow as it gets 25 ft. tall and wide. Hardy to zone 9, the only drawback of this white-flowering beauty is that it can be a little messy, so keep away from swimming pools.
All of these white flowering plants are drought tolerant and do well in hot, arid climates.
Do you grow any of these in your garden? Which is your favorite?
As beautiful as these plants are, I have more to show you next time in Part 2 next week!
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Before you lament a fall season devoid of colorful fall foliage in the arid West and Southwest regions of the U.S., here are some favorite water-wise shrubs and trees that will add glorious color in varying shades of orange, red, and burgundy to your arid autumn landscape.
we enjoyed on a trip to Williamsburg, VA several years ago.
Have you ever traveled somewhere else to find colorful fall foliage? What if you could have fall color in your own landscape?
A Splash of Fall Foliage Color in the Arid Desert
Like most water-wise plants, the following do best in well-drained soil. The watering guidelines given are approximate and may need to be adjusted in response to variables such as sun exposure, soil, and climate. In general, drought-tolerant plants do best when the soil is watered deeply and then allowed to dry out before the next watering. Plant in fall or wait until spring, and enjoy fall color for years to come.
Pink Muhly Grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris)
Autumn Pink
In spring and summer, this ornamental grass provides an attractive backdrop with its graceful green foliage. As temperatures begin to fall and days begin to shorten, burgundy-pink plumes softly wave above the green blades, and pink muhly grass takes center stage in the garden. Its color slowly fades to a lovely wheat color in winter. Plant it in groups of three, five, or seven for the greatest effect.
Growing Conditions
Where it will grow: Hardy to 0 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 18 degrees Celsius (USDA zones 7 to 9; find your zone)
Water requirement: Low to moderate; can survive on little water, but flowering is improved with regular summer irrigation. Water every 10 to 14 days in summer, every two weeks in spring through fall, and monthly in winter for the best flowering.
Light requirement: Full, reflected sun to filtered shade
Mature size: 3 feet tall and wide
Planting notes: Plant in well-drained soil in full sun or filtered shade; cut back to the ground in late winter; apply a slow-release fertilizer in spring.
‘Sticks on Fire’ Milk Bush (Euphorbia tirucalli ‘Sticks on Fire’)
Unexpected Bursts of Orange
Orange splashes of color come from an unexpected source with this drought-tolerant succulent. ‘Sticks on Fire’ differs from the green-colored parent plant in that it is smaller and new growth has a bright orange color. The color fades to yellow and then green in summer only to turn orange again when temperatures cool. In cooler climates it can be grown in a container and brought indoors when temperatures dip below freezing. Milk bush can easily be propagated from cuttings. Be sure to wear gloves when handling this plant, as its milky sap can irritate skin and eyes.
Growing Conditions
Where it will grow: Hardy to 30 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 1 degree Celsius (zones 9 to 11)
Water requirement: Low; water every three weeks spring through fall and monthly in winter. In the low desert, water twice a month spring through fall.
Light requirement: Full sun to filtered shade (full sun is needed for it to develop the orange color)
Mature size: 4 to 8 feet tall and 3 to 5 feet wide
Planting notes: Plant in well-drained soil in full sun.
Chinese Pistache (Pistacia chinensis)
A Burst of Fall Foliage
Chinese pistache is for those who are looking for a tree that produces colorful fall foliage and will thrive in dry, arid climates. It is widely grown throughout the Northwest and the southern half of the United States, and is a go-to tree for reliable autumn color in the Southwest. In fall, bright green leaves give way to shades of yellow followed by orange and red, providing much-desired fall color for the drought-tolerant garden. Female trees produce berries that attract birds. This tree isn’t fussy about soil, as long as it’s well-drained, but it does need room to grow to its full size.
Growing Conditions
Where it will grow: Hardy to minus 10 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 23 degrees Celsius (zones 6 to 9)
Water requirement: Low to moderate; water to 3 feet every 10 to 14 days in summer, every three weeks in spring through fall and monthly in winter
Light requirement: Full, reflected sun to filtered shade
Mature size: 30 to 60 feet tall and 30 to 40 feet wide
Planting notes: Plant in well-drained soil in full sun or filtered shade; prune in winter to shape.
Firebush (Hamelia patens)
N
A Blaze of Color and Fall Foliage
The allure of firebush goes beyond its stunning orange-red spring and summer blooms, which are a magnet for hummingbirds. It saves its grand finale for fall when its lush foliage transforms into a vibrant shade of red, creating a fiery spectacle. In tropical climates, this heat-loving shrub can grow into a small tree, while in drought-tolerant landscapes, it remains a manageable and colorful shrub. Although it dies back when temperatures dip into the 20s, it resurfaces in spring. In zones 7 and below, it can be grown as an annual.
Growing Conditions
Where it will grow: Hardy to 10 degrees Fahrenheit (zones 7 to 11)
Water requirement: Moderate; water 18 inches to 2 feet deep weekly in summer, every 10 to 14 days in spring through fall, and every three weeks in winter
Light requirement: Full and reflected sun to filtered shade (full sun is best for flowering)
Mature size: 4 to 5 feet tall and wide
Planting notes: Plant in well-drained soil; prune back in spring, after the danger of frost has passed.
This plum tree species is renowned for its regal burgundy-purple foliage that graces the landscape from spring through fall. Despite being a plum tree, its fruits are typically small or nonexistent, as its true value lies in its captivating foliage. Pale pink springtime blossoms are soon followed by the emergence of dark-colored leaves. While several cherry plum varieties exist, ‘Krauter Vesuvius’ stands out as the most drought-tolerant, making it ideal for enduring hot, dry summers.
Growing Conditions
Where it will grow: Hardy to minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit (zones 5 to 9)
Water requirement: Moderate; water 2 to 3 feet every 10 to 14 days in summer, every two to three weeks in spring and fall, and monthly in winter. In the low desert, water weekly in summer and every 10 to 12 days in spring and fall.
Light requirement: Full sun to filtered shade (full sun is needed for maximum purple color)
Mature size: 15 to 20 feet tall and wide; smaller cultivars are available
Planting notes: Plant in well-drained soil; prune during winter dormancy.
Heavenly Bamboo (Nandina domestica)
A Bamboo-Like Marvel with Radiant Red Fall Foliage
Heavenly bamboo, often likened to true bamboo due to its fine-textured leaves and upright stems, unveils a delightful transformation in fall and winter. The new growth takes on a charming burgundy tint before transitioning to a bright spring and summer green. As cooler temperatures grace the landscape, the foliage transitions into enchanting shades of red. Additionally, small flowers give way to clusters of red berries in autumn. While moderately drought-tolerant, it thrives in arid regions, maintaining its vigorous growth in controlled environments.
Caution: Heavenly bamboo can become invasive in regions with abundant rainfall, especially in the eastern U.S., and all parts of this shrub are toxic.
Growing Conditions
Where it will grow: Hardy to minus 10 degrees Fahrenheit (zones 6 to 9)
Water requirement: Low to moderate; water 18 inches to 2 feet twice a month in summer, every three weeks in spring and fall, and monthly in winter. In the low desert, water weekly in summer and twice a month in spring and fall.
Light requirement: Full sun to filtered shade (prefers filtered to full shade in the low desert)
Mature size: 4 to 6 feet tall and 3 feet wide; smaller cultivars are available
Planting notes: Plant in well-drained soil; selectively prune older branches at the base in late winter or early spring.
Do you have a favorite plant that gives you fall color?
https://www.azplantlady.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/fall_foliage.jpg426640arizonaplantlady@gmail.comhttp://www.azplantlady.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/favicon.pngarizonaplantlady@gmail.com2019-10-23 07:00:002023-10-02 15:24:22Fall Foliage for the Southwestern Garden
Have you ever driven by a newly-planted landscape? If so, you probably noticed that many of the plants were quite small.
I like to joke that sometimes you need a magnifying glass just to see the new plants. But as small as they are, within a short amount of time, those plants start to grow.
Look at the same landscape three years later. The plants are well-established and look great.
Fast forward eight-ten years, and you may start to see signs of some plants becoming overgrown and unattractive.
When this happens to shrubs, we can often push a ‘restart button’ (for most types of shrubs) and prune them back severely in spring using a good pair of loppers, which reduces their size. I use my Corona loppers to do major pruning of my shrubs.
However, there are some plants where this approach doesn’t work.
Let’s identify a few of these plants and how to deal with them once they outgrow their allotted space or become filled with old, woody growth.
Desert Spoon (Dasylirion wheeleri)
Desert spoon is one of my favorite plants. I love how its blue-gray, spiky leaves add texture to the garden and contrast with plants that have darker green foliage.
After ten years or more in the landscape, desert spoon can start to take on a ragged, rather unattractive appearance, as well as grow quite large.
When this happens, I recommend that they be removed and a new one planted in its place.
Now, some of you may think that may seem wasteful, but I invite you to take another look at your landscape and the plants within it.
Your outdoor space isn’t static and unchanging. Its appearance changes with the seasons with plants blooming at different times. Trees gradually extend the amount of shade they provide and plants change in size.
A newly planted garden doesn’t look the same through the years, it changes.
Rosemary is a good choice for those who want rich, dark green color in the garden. Bees love the light blue flowers that appear in late winter and spring, and the aromatic foliage can be used to flavor your favorite dishes.
But, as time passes, it does get bigger, outgrowing its original space.
When this happens, people start to shear their rosemary, which is stressful for the plant and contributes to sections of branches dying.
For those who don’t like the formal look, pruning rosemary back severely would be your first impulse. But, the problem with rosemary is that they don’t respond well to severe pruning.
So again, in this case, it’s best to pull out the old rosemary and add a new one, which will provide beauty for several years.
Rosemary hedge
To avoid having to remove and replace rosemary too often, allow them plenty of room to grow to their mature size.
Red Yucca (Hesperaloe parviflora)
Red yucca is prized for its succulent, green leaves that resemble an ornamental grass and its coral flowers, which appear spring through fall.
Once it has been growing seven years or more, red yucca may overwhelm the landscape visually. This is particularly true if the area it’s growing in isn’t very big.
Occasionally, some people will try to remove the outer leaves at the base. However, this is laborious and only serves to stimulate red yucca to grow back faster.
In those situations, I tell people that their plant has had a nice life, but it’s time to start over.
Newly-planted red yucca
You may be thinking, why use plants that you’ll only have to replace after seven to ten years?
Well, all three of these plants add beauty to the landscape and are low-maintenance.
Another way to think of it is to compare your landscape with the interior of your home. Do you make small changes to the decor of your home every few years to keep it looking fresh and attractive? The same should be true of the outside.
Replacing a few plants after seven years or more isn’t expensive. Don’t you think that the beauty these plants offer to your outdoor space makes them worth it?
https://www.azplantlady.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Johnsonfrontyard.jpg353640arizonaplantlady@gmail.comhttp://www.azplantlady.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/favicon.pngarizonaplantlady@gmail.com2019-10-09 07:14:002020-12-15 10:36:00Old, Overgrown Plants: Time to Start Over?
I have a weakness (well, one of many) to confess to you today….
I absolutely love salt.
In fact, I have a theory that the reason that so many people love french fries is not the potatoes or the fat it is fried in. No, it is the salt that you put on them afterwards. I mean, can you imagine eating an unsalted french fry?
In preparation for this blog post, I went through my kitchen and pulled out all of my salt & pepper shakers.
It’s kind of embarrassing isn’t it? I have so many.
But in my defense, I must admit that I collect different types of pottery and need salt and pepper shakers for each set.
My husband made me my wooden salt cellar, which I keep near the stove when I cook.
Now, I do not use as much salt as I used to. In fact, I am trying to be better about it. When I visited the doctor earlier this week for my physical, I still had low blood pressure, much to my relief.
Well, we all know that too much salt is bad for you and can lead to health problems such as high blood pressure. But did you know that too much salt is not good for your plants as well?
Plants don’t get ‘high blood pressure’ with too much salt, but they do have another problem that shows up.
They get brown tips on their leaves, which we call ‘salt burn’.
Here is another way that you can tell plants are getting too much salt. Shallow watering causes the water in the soil to evaporate quickly, leaving behind the salts. The salts look like a white crust on the soil around your plants.
At this point you may be wondering how plants get too much salt?
Well, both soil and water have naturally occurring salts in them. This is especially true in the Desert Southwest where our water is somewhat salty and our soils can suffer from salt build-up due to high evaporation.
So what do you do if you have indoor or outdoor plants that have brown tips?
The solution is very easy.
Water deeply.
That’s it!
Here is a shrub that has signs of salt build-up. I encountered with one of my clients during a landscape consultation – he had other shrubs that looked similar.
I will tell you what I told him:
If your outdoor plants look like this, first water the affected plant with your hose on a slow trickle for at least 2 – 3 hours. This helps to ‘leach’ or flush the salts away from the roots.
Thereafter, adjust your irrigation schedule so that your shrubs are watered to an approximate depth of 18 inches deep each time. Sadly, most people water too often, too shallow and not long enough.
For example, I water my shrubs and perennials every 5 – 7 days in the summer. This takes approximately 2 hours for my plants to be watered to a depth of 2 ft. Of course the time it takes to water that deeply is different for each landscape and is dependent on a variety of factors including soil type and water pressure.
If your houseplant has brown tips (salt burn), then simply flush the salts out by deeply watering. You can do this by putting your plant in the sink or bathtub and let water slowly trickle on your plant for 1 – 2 hours.
I cover landscape irrigation in depth with my students in my online course, Desert Gardening 101, but for those of you looking for advice right now here’s what I recommend. Search online for watering guidelines on your city’s website – most have schedules including recommended depths.
So in closing I’ll leave you with these two tips:
Be sure to limit your salt intake AND water your plants deeply to prevent salt burn.
https://www.azplantlady.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/plants_salt_build-up_soil_southwest.jpg517640arizonaplantlady@gmail.comhttp://www.azplantlady.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/favicon.pngarizonaplantlady@gmail.com2019-08-21 08:40:002022-09-18 05:28:50Too Much Salt Isn’t Good For You OR Your Plants…
I am always on the lookout for new plants to the desert plant palette. The desert plant palette is ever-evolving, with growers continually striving to introduce new varieties that boast exciting colors, sizes, and desirable characteristics.
I was able to visit Civano Nursery Farm, located in Sahuarita, 20 miles outside of Tucson this fall. The goal was to introduce me to their new Tecoma shrub hybrid called ‘Red Hot.’ This new plant is closely related to yellow and orange bells. Both are great plants to use when designing.
A Glimpse into ‘Red Hot’ Tecoma
At the time of my visit, ‘Red Hot’ was not yet available to the public. Still a test plant, it has been grown for testing throughout the Southwest.
I met with Jackie Lyle, their Brand Development Manager. She plays an integral part in the introduction of new plants to the Southwest region.
Exploring Civano Nursery Farm
Our tour began in the greenhouses where we explored their state-of-the-art automated systems. There are massive amounts of plants in all stages of growth. I was in heaven!
Although I’ve never worked in a nursery or for a grower, witnessing how they propagate plants from cuttings was a fascinating experience.
The Beauty of ‘Red Hot’ Tecoma
While touring the greenhouses, I got my first view of ‘Red Hot’ Tecoma. Instantly, I could see why there is so much excitement about this new variety. The foliage has the characteristic color of most Tecomas,. But the leaves are somewhat smaller than yellow bells and more compact.
The vibrant red blooms stole the show, and I knew they would undoubtedly attract hummingbirds with their nectar-rich flowers.
The ‘Civano Select’ are plants hybridized by the grower. These shrubs have slightly different characteristics than the more common species. This makes them a welcome addition to the desert plant palette. I was able to view several of their ‘Select’ plants during our tour.
How to Grow ‘Red Hot’ Tecoma
As you can imagine, this is a bustling nursery. There were shipments of plants headed out to job sites and other nurseries.
Whoever is getting these ‘Red Hot’ shrubs are in for a treat!
‘Red Hot’ Tecoma in Your Garden
And, guess who came home with her own ‘Red Hot’ shrubs? Me!
Then I was extremely honored to receive two of these new shrubs. I can share with you how they do in my Phoenix area garden. They are doing very well along the south-facing side of my house underneath the window by my kitchen.
Then, of course, I also brought home other plants – autumn sage(Salvia greggii), Mt. Lemmon marigold(Tagetes lemmonii), ‘Mr. Liko’pink gaura(Gaura lindheimeri ‘Mr. Liko’). Getting free plants is like Christmas to this horticulturist!
The great news is that ‘Red Hot’ Tecoma shrubs are now available at many local nurseries.
Want to see if this is the right shrub for your garden?
Here are the stats:
Size: 4 feet tall and wide
Exposure: Full sun, reflected sun
Bloom Season: Spring through Fall
Cold Hardiness: 15 degrees
Attracts: Hummingbirds
I will share the progress of my new ‘Red Hot’ shrubs and maybe you can do the same.
https://www.azplantlady.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Red-Hot-Tecoma-shrub.jpg7681024arizonaplantlady@gmail.comhttp://www.azplantlady.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/favicon.pngarizonaplantlady@gmail.com2019-05-09 07:18:572023-10-04 14:04:12‘Red Hot’ Is A Welcome Addition to the Desert Garden
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